The Collection

Rye: The wild side of whisky

This characterful grain is increasingly in the spotlight – and not just in American whiskies. Joel Harrison investigates the international rise of rye whisky and tastes an impressive array of spice-driven expressions

Words by Joel Harrison

Photography by Xavier Young

bottles of fielden, kyro and whistlepig rye whiskies

Rye whisky is having a moment, and not just in the United States, where rye’s bold, spicy flavour has long played a part in the country’s distilling history. Rye whisky is breaking borders, finding new homes and voices in unlikely corners of the globe, and giving birth to a new wave of maverick mash bills. Want a bourbon with an edge of spice? Add a good dollop of rye to your mash bill. Want a whisky that is bold, dry and driven by earthy notes? Make a rye whisky (legally with 51% or more rye in the grain recipe). While rye has become incredibly popular in the US – with nearly every major brand of bourbon producing a ‘rye’ version of their label – the rye revolution is spreading, bubbling up in the craft distilleries of Europe, Australia and even Scotland.

So, why rye? Rye is gritty. It’s messy. It doesn’t play nice, like malted barley, or go down smoothly, like corn-based whisky. On the surface, it might seem an unlikely star grain. But its rise in popularity among drinkers can be attributed to the very fact that rye has an edge; it bites, it burns, it leaves you with that peppery zing that you’ll either love or hate. Once you love it, you won’t go back – you’ll crave that spiciness, that earthy depth.

Rye has an edge: it bites, it burns, it leaves you with that peppery zing

Distillers around the world are catching on. They’re taking this rebellious grain and making it their own, each in their own way. But it’s a bit of a gamble for them, too. After all, single-malt whisky is a well-behaved beast. The use of malted barley results in a smooth, soft, flavourful spirit, rich and rounded on the palate. Meanwhile, in blended Scotch whisky, malt is the star that sits atop light grain whisky, bringing the flavour and fun to the mix. However, while these are crowd-pleasing aspects, malted barley can be – dare I say it? – a little bit bland. That’s almost its appeal: it’s a grain that ferments well, distils well, matures well and tastes great. Rye, on the other hand, is offering a real point of difference.

And then there’s the fact that distillers are learning to lean ever more into what grows on their doorstep. Rye is a hardy cereal that is widely cultivated around the world, so it is logical to use it for whisky-making. Look at Finland; it is a country that embraces the use of rye in everyday life. The Finns consume more of the grain per person than anyone else in the world. Therefore, it makes sense for Finnish distillery Kyrö to focus its whisky-making around this staple. This all-rye distillery is crafting a variety of high-quality spirits such as gin, whisky, and other special releases from this flavoursome cereal. Here, rye is a way of life.

So, too, at Denmark’s Stauning. Tucked away in a windswept part of the country, these guys are doing things the old-school way – from floor maltings, to direct-fired stills, not to mention the use of Danish rye like their grandfathers grew. Their rye whisky is intense and full-flavoured. It hits you with spices and the rich, bready, peppery flavour that only rye can deliver.

It is not just in the Nordic countries where rye has taken hold. Even Scottish rye whisky is on the rise, where malt whisky has been king for centuries, places such as the Arbikie Distillery are shaking things up. The approach there is all about heritage grains, and its rye whisky is a love letter to the past, with a rough-around-the-edges charm that makes you feel like you’re drinking history in a glass.

It’s great to see rye putting down roots in new places. This whisky with attitude isn’t for everyone, and it doesn’t care to be. Distillers around the world are embracing this – taking rye, bending it to their will and letting it speak for itself.

Top rye whisky from around the world

Producer Name
Arbikie , Highland Rye 1794
Arbikie  Highland Rye 1794
InchDairnie , RyeLaw 
InchDairnie  RyeLaw 
Kyrö , Peat Smoked Rye Malt 
Kyrö  Peat Smoked Rye Malt 
Stork Club , Straight Rye 
Stork Club  Straight Rye 
WhistlePig , 10 Year Old Small Batch Rye
WhistlePig  10 Year Old Small Batch Rye
Kyrö , Malt Rye
Kyrö  Malt Rye
Fielden, Rye Whisky
Fielden Rye Whisky
Stauning, Rye
Stauning Rye
Stauning, Rye Sweet Wine Casks 
Stauning Rye Sweet Wine Casks 
WhistlePig , PiggyBack 6 Year Old Rye
WhistlePig  PiggyBack 6 Year Old Rye
Zuidam , Millstone 100 Rye
Zuidam  Millstone 100 Rye
East London Liquor Co , London Rye 
East London Liquor Co  London Rye 
Filliers , 5 Year Old Rye
Filliers  5 Year Old Rye
Hautes Glaces , Ceros Single Rye 
Hautes Glaces  Ceros Single Rye