If you’ve ever been lucky enough to take a tour of a Scottish single malt whisky distillery, the phrase ‘we only use the finest malted barley’ will be a familiar one. But in some corners of Scotland, distillers are turning to different grains as a counterpoint to traditional barley malt.
Drinkers are increasingly enamoured with the deep, spicy, peppery flavours of rye whiskey, both neat and as a cocktail ingredient. The steady growth in the popularity of American rye over the past decade has provided inspiration to distillers across the world. Be it in Europe, with Zuidam in the Netherlands, for example, to Australia and the Archie Rose Distilling Co., rye whisky is becoming a force to be reckoned with.
Naturally, Scottish distillers are also entering the fray. As Loch Lomond distillery manager John Buchanan explains, ‘Looking into rye to create flavourful spirit makes a lot of sense for us. More Scottish distilleries are embracing this approach and that’s bolstering the movement.’
Consumers can expect a wide variety of approaches, with individual distillers looking to put their own signature on the category. One example is InchDairnie Distillery’s Ryelaw, which adheres to the traditional American approach of a minimum of 51% rye in their mash. By contrast, the decision taken at Arbikie Distillery was to showcase as much of the rye grain they grow on their farm as possible. ‘The individual flavour profile of the grain is very different and exciting,’ explains John Stirling, Arbikie’s co-founder. ‘We’ve also developed our single grain heritage varieties that give us even more diversity in the finished whisky.’
Johnnie Walker’s master blender, Emma Walker, is using rye spirit as an ingredient in Johnnie Walker High Rye, noting the role it has played throughout history in blended Scotch whisky. ‘Records of its use go back to 1784 – it’s great to resurrect and take part in its newfound and ongoing success.’
In historical terms, Emma raises a pertinent point. The use of rye in Scotch had died out completely, and malted barley has risen to play an integral and internationally recognised role, not only in the whisky industry but in the culture and history of Scotland itself. Detractors could argue that a step away from its use could threaten Scottish whisky’s reputation. Bruichladdich head distiller Adam Hannett recognises this but remains philosophical, seeing the use of rye as a positive step. ‘There was a lovely moment in our still room back in 2017. We were running rye spirit for the first time and I realised that the guy stood next to me was a chap called Budgie. He was the person who taught me how to run a still when I first started at the distillery. It was nice to feel we’d come full circle [in learning and adapting to something new] and we’re still helping move the industry forward.’
The story of modern Scottish rye whisky has now well and truly begun. Trials with rye mash bills are taking place at Loch Lomond and Lone Wolf Distilleries, and there are unconfirmed rumours of experiments at multiple other distilleries. At the time of writing, these are the five producers in Scotland with notable whiskies containing rye spirit.
Arbikie, Highland Rye Single Grain
Arbikies Rye spirit is made with only the minimum amount of malted barley required to efficiently convert starches into fermentable sugars. Notable flavours include black tea, caraway, and clove.
From £95 for 70cl, arbikie.com
Johnnie Walker, High Rye
Johnnie Walker High Rye consists of a blend of whiskies, including spirit from Cameronbridge and Teaninich distilleries containing 60% rye mash bills. The result is a balance of sweet vanilla notes and the spiciness of rye that is revealed through subtle wisps of warm smoke.
£149.95 for 75cl, htfw.com
Bruichladdich, The Regeneration Project
Initial conversations about the use of rye at Islay’s Bruichladdich distillery occurred back in 2016 with a view to improving biodiversity on the island through crop rotation. The Regeneration Project contains 55% rye and 45% malted barley, all grown locally. Tasting notes include liquorice, pepper, vanilla and chocolate.
£125 for 70cl, bruichladdich.com
The Borders Distillery, WS:01 Borders Malt & Rye
A blend comprised of 63.8% Single Grain 36.2% Single Malt. Rye spirit is matured in the same fresh-fill bourbon casks as the malt to create an aromatic whisky.
£40 for 70cl, thebordersdistillery.com
Inchdairnie, Ryelaw
The mash bill consists of 53% malted rye and 47% malted barley, and this whisky delivers flavours of spice, berries, cereal and bread.
£114.99 for 70cl, inchdairniedistillery.com
