Kentucky is a place of contrasts when it comes to whiskey-making. Centuries-old recipes are produced in modern, highly optimised distilleries. Heritage brands line up on-shelf alongside young, innovative upstarts – and both could be made at the same site. Despite category-wide commercial wobbles (that many see as short-term), new mega-distilleries are under construction right across the state. It’s a busy time for the industry.
In some ways, Kentucky whiskey can feel like a contradiction. It’s a somewhat perplexing snapshot that feels representative of American whiskey as a whole. Alongside the heritage straight bourbons and ryes, there’s the similarly long-established Tennessee whiskey segment. At the same time, American single malt is bursting onto the scene, led by craft makers up and down the country. The fledgling category is still yet to be defined in law or break into the mainstream but it is starting to turn heads. On top of that, some makers are pushing what’s possible both in science and legislation in their mission to create new flavours.
The historical styles still triumph when it comes to quality
Rye whiskey, a style that dates back until at least the early 1700s, was the preferred drink up until Prohibition. After that, bourbons came to the fore as rye more or less died out. The dynamic usefully illustrates that American whiskey trends have always ebbed and flowed. This modern-day situation is nothing new but in 2024, as the panel of IWSC judges found out at the inaugural North American tasting in Kentucky, the historical styles still triumph when it comes to quality. Malt whiskey is emerging, makers are experimenting more with grains, barrel finishes and production methods, and there’s an undisputable, fiery passion from all these distillers and blenders…but the classics are still coming out on top. At the end of the judging, seven out of the 10 highest scoring whiskies were either straight bourbon or rye expressions.
Guy Hodcroft, spirits buyer at Bordeaux Index, was one of the judges. He agrees that even with giddy levels of excitement around the emergence of American single malt, it was ultimately the established styles that won out in terms of scores and medals. ‘Time and again, examples of sensitively matured, well-balanced bourbons and ryes delivered, providing in many cases an outstanding drinking experience,’ he noted. ‘It is nothing short of remarkable that producers are consistently able to bring products of such quality – and indeed the quantity in which they are produced – to market, especially when taking into account the weight of history and reputation these categories carry in the context of American whiskey.’
The young upstarts
Such a lean towards the classics might suggest that the whiskeys on show in Kentucky were one-note or dull. This was far from the case. Even within the rigorous rules of the established categories, there were huge variations in profile and drinking experience. Take the top five whiskeys mentioned below and the commitment to innovation is profound. Kentucky Peerless Distilling Co is experimenting with toast and char levels, unlocking excellence as it goes. Sazerac is long-ageing rye, which takes a huge amount of oak maturation expertise and technical development. ‘It was fascinating to taste through the unique approaches in grain and barrel that drove a wide range of flavour,’ noted Dan Callaway, vice president of product development at Bardstown Bourbon Co, who also sat on the panel.
Of course, there were some fantastic examples in emerging categories too. Top of the list points-wise and celebrated below is Virginia Distillery Company’s Cabernet Cask Select American Single Malt Whisky. The distillery was founded in 2011, becoming one of the first in the country to lean into malt whiskey distillation. This particular expression is aged for seven years in first-fill bourbon casks, ahead of a finishing period in various Cabernet Sauvignon casks sourced from France and California. It was a 98 point-scoring standout among a new cohort of finishing innovators – from new names taking their first steps, to long-established distillers looking to the new. Two Silver medal winners prove this point: Sazerac’s Thomas S. Moore Chardonnay Finished Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, and RD1 Spirits’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished with French Oak. This ambition from market entrants plays its part in creating an incredibly rosy future for American whiskey.
‘Highlights and surprises’
In some ways, perhaps it’s to be expected that the classic straight bourbons and ryes shone so brightly. Generations of distillers have crafted these whiskies – expertise runs deep. But there were plenty of new discoveries from fresh entrants that delighted all the judging panels, too.
‘There were so many highlights and surprises,’ said Dawn Davies MW, head buyer at The Whisky Exchange. She looked beyond the tasting room to visits to the cathedral-like Heaven Hill distillery, as well as to new maker, Potter Jane. The innovation on show at host Bardstown stood out, too. ‘All of which makes me so excited for the future,’ she continued. ‘However, it always has to come back to liquid and it was fantastic to see the variety of style and expressions coming out of the category from big powerful beasts to elegant fruit-driven expressions. It is wonderful to see that variety and depth of flavour emerging in American whiskey today.’
Jane Bowie, co-founder of Potter Jane, was also amazed by the breadth of drinking experiences on offer from the category today. ‘I think the highlight for me was seeing all the styles of American whiskeys laid out in one space together,’ she said. ‘It’s being able to really see and taste how far we’ve come in the last decade on styles, techniques, flavour, and diversity. It’s really exciting.’
Of course, there were some fantastic whiskies in emerging categories too
The concluding remark has to be on the energy in the American whiskey sector today. ‘From the bourbon distilleries we visited, each one represented one word – passion!’ – Richard Paterson OBE was emphatic. As the master blender at Whyte & Mackay for over 50 years, he should know. ‘Not only passion but a dedicated passion to ensure that at all times the quality of their outstanding spirit remained sacrosanct.’ After all, that’s what it really comes down to – the proof is in the tasting glass. The quality in many areas was world-beating – and with that devotion from whiskey creators, there’s still so much more to come. The classic makers should perhaps watch out – the American whiskey innovators are coming in hot.
Five top American whiskeys to try from the IWSC judging in Kentucky
Kentucky Peerless Distilling Co., Toasted Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
This outstanding Bourbon opens with captivating aromas of rich oak integrated with vibrant orchard fruit and warm cinnamon. The palate reveals layers of caramel, delicate nuttiness, and a hint of pepper, all enveloped in a creamy embrace. A wonderfully extended finish with complex notes of both grain and barrel. 98 points. Read more.
Coors Spirits Co., Five Trail Barrel Proof Batch 003 Blended American Whiskey
Big enticing aromas of malted cereal, sweet creamy milk chocolate and crisp red berries. The deliciously silky palate drips with the flavours of candied spiced nuts. A gorgeous mouthfeel that boasts a satisfyingly velvety finish. 98 points. Read more.
Bulleit Frontier Whiskey, Bulleit Rye 10 YO American Straight Rye Whiskey
The aroma unfolds with rich caramel and warm leather with whispers of green tea and lively cinnamon spice. A velvety mouthfeel reveals layers of dark cherry and blackcurrant, leading to a bright, chocolate-orange finish and delightful rye spice. 98 points. Read more.
Virginia Distillery Company, Cabernet Cask Select American Single Malt Whisky
Solid, well-crafted, and well balanced. The nose reveals a captivating medley of savoury herbs and subtle vegetal notes, inviting exploration. On the palate, vibrant red grape and raisin harmonize beautifully, culminating in a smooth, well-integrated finish that lingers delightfully. 98 points. Read more.
Sazerac Company, Sazerac 18 YO Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey
Juicy fruits, beautiful balance, and outstanding clarity of flavours. Oranges, leather, and toasted bread with a touch of cloves. The finish is classic and easy drinking, bottled at a good ABV. 98 points. Read more.
