For all the challenges, 2021’s results are spectacular, offering hope for the impending challenge-filled vintages. Emanuele Jorio of Bartolo Mascarello called the 2021s ‘vibrant,’ ‘edgy,’ and ‘nervous’ compared to the more ‘relaxed’ 2020, though not quite as austere as 2019. Carlotta Rinaldi of Giuseppe Rinaldi described them as firmer, more vertical and age-worthy than 2020 with assertive but ripe tannins and dark-leaning, savoury aromatics. Valter Fissore (Cogno) emphasised the wines’ structure, calling 2021 a ‘black’ vintage (a term he normally uses for warm vintages) rather than a ‘red’ (cold) or ‘blue’ (ideal, like 2010, 2016 or, in his view, 2020).

The expression is undoubtedly different to 2020 and especially 2018, standard-bearers of the new wave, silky style that seemed to be taking over the region (most non-2021s in this report were tasted at OperaWine 2025, which felt like a showcase for this style). Those worried Barolo was growing too ‘soft’ will be relieved. Even producers apparently pursuing an ultra-gentle, ‘infused’ style, such as Mauro Veglio (like many of these innovators, a former arch-modernist) and Azelia, have presented 2021s with a reassuringly firm grain. I for one am glad to see producers letting the year express itself and not simply under-extracting concentrated fruit. Rinaldi and Maria Teresa Mascarello, both die-hard traditionalists, have been less sold on the ‘Pinotfied’ style, concerned about losing Nebbiolo’s identity. Meanwhile, though its solid tannins will doubtless take some time to unclench, many producers – including Paolo Scavino and Pio Cesare – have decided to reduce oak maturation time, preferring a slower micro-oxygenation in glass bottles.

As awareness of Barolo MGAs grows, certain names seem poised to outshine the marquee crus of the past like Cannubi and Vignarionda, once prized for their warmth. These include Monvigliero (made famous by Burlotto, now joined by Scavino, Vietti and Luigi Einaudi), known for its lighter soils, south-facing slope and perfumed style; and Ravera (elevated by Cogno and now Scavino, Vietti and Vajra), much less homogenous but boasting some prized, elevated sites. Other newer ‘hot’ MGAs include Cerretta – produced by Ettore Germano, Giovanni Rosso, Baudana and Azelia – a steep hill where Serralunga’s Lequio Formation marls and Sant’Agata marls meet; and Castelletto, a large and varied but generally cool-leaning Monforte MGA, made by Fortemasso, Josetta Saffirio and Mauro Veglio. Both fit the current age’s desire for less direct sunlight and warmth. Monforte’s vast Bussia continues to have label appeal; Scavino, Luigi Einaudi and Giuseppe Rinaldi have all added Bussia bottlings relatively recently that more than live up to its name.

Concurrently, those beating the drum for blended Barolo – Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Rinaldi and Pio Cesare (all included for the first time this year), plus Aldo Conterno with Gran Bussia – remain some of the region’s greats. This feels critical in an age when the explosion of MGA wines must be compromising the quality of many classic Barolo (though nobody wants to say so). Perhaps tellingly, several producers didn’t send their classic Barolo for review. However, the best still diligently guard the quality of their flagships even if they are not blended Barolo diehards e.g. Massolino, Vietti.

Meanwhile, there seems to be a growing recognition among producers that, with the price of MGA wines having boosted the prices of blended Barolo, there is a need for ‘introductory’ Barolo to win new consumers to the category e.g. Cogno with Cascina Nuova (their ‘democratic’ Barolo) or Vajra with its Albe. While there are several younger family members who have taken on greater responsibility or even full control at major producers (e.g. Federica Boffa at Pio Cesare) most seem focused on continuity, subtle production updates or non-Barolo product lines like white and sparkling wines, rather than aggressively democratising Barolo. Instead, it is perhaps producers like Ferdinando Principiano (included for the first time here this year) whose natural leaning style most directly appeals to a youthful audience.

While the wines from 2021 are undoubtedly impressive, the timing of their release was far from enviable, just preceding the barrage of tariffs and tariff threats from Barolo’s most important market, the US. Even if demand for fine wine is generally less elastic, years of inflationary price increases have left little appetite for further bumps among either trade buyers or collectors. Speaking at wine2wine Chicago, Tribeca Wine Merchant’s Benjamin Aneff said tariff-based price increases haven’t even really hit the market yet. One wonders whether by appealing so much to collectors, who by definition deplete their stocks slowly, not to mention wine investment funds, Barolo has become a victim of its own success.

Opinion in the trade is mixed: The Golden Vines Report 2024 named Piemonte as the region with most potential in 2025. Though Liv-Ex’s Italian index has, like all its indices, dropped precipitously since 2023, it has dropped less over one year (-5.9% vs. -6.7%) and two years (-11.7% vs. -16.9%) than the Fine Wine 100, and the five-year growth rate remains strongly positive (+9.8% vs. +0.8%). However, most producers outside the top tier admit the global market is challenging and sensitive to price increases, with wine no longer simply selling itself.

Asia remains more difficult than the US and Europe. Though Hong Kong has the world’s most active delegation of the Knights of Alba – a consumer group charged with promoting Alba’s truffles and wines – and the 2025 Barolo En Primeur auction will, as always, be live-streamed in the city, major hospitality slowdowns in Hong Kong and the collapse of demand for Italian wine in mainland China, as well as once growing markets like South Korea, are concerning.

To conclude on the topic of the wines themselves, my favourites in the report were those that unabashedly embraced 2021’s character – dark and serious but full of energy – like Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, Azelia Bricco Fiasco, Massolino Margheria and Cogno Bricco Pernice. For drinkers who enjoyed the shift to a lighter, more (dare I say it?) Burgundian style, many 2021 MGA wines will underwhelm, especially in youth, as they have yet to grow into their massive structures. Look instead for blended Barolo from Giovanni Rosso, Paolo Scavino, Michele Mascarello or Borgogno, where site blending has produced profiles already harmonious in youth. The burlier 2021s merit (or even demand) long-term cellaring, with the phenolic material and low pH putting them on course to go for decades. If you prefer wines in a redder phase, most will probably get there eventually; the nine-year-old Vajra Ravera 2016, once described by Antonio Galloni as ‘tough as nails,’ is pure silk now. For the truly tannin-averse, today you can pick up 2018s at comparatively manageable prices, and happily pop and pour (Burlotto Acclivi 2018, included in this report, is an absolute stunner).

Tasting notes and scores from Club Oenologique’s Barolo Report 2025 (featuring only those wines scoring 90 points and above) are available to all registered users of The Collection, the online home of our premium wine and spirits content. To register, click here.