Sarah Heller MW on making Cabernet cool again
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The current fashion for more restrained wines from cooler climates has generally left Cabernet Sauvignon out in the cold. It needn't be so, says Sarah Heller MW

Italophile MW Sarah Heller was born and raised in Hong Kong, where she covers wine for Asia Tatler, disseminating her sometimes idiosyncratic wine recommendations across the continent.
The current fashion for more restrained wines from cooler climates has generally left Cabernet Sauvignon out in the cold. It needn't be so, says Sarah Heller MW
The current thinking is that to belong to the upper echelons of grape royalty, a variety must be site- and vintage-expressive but unmistakably itself. So what about Chardonnay, asks Sarah Heller MW