Read more: The Brunello di Montalcino Report 2023

In fact, such is the distinctiveness of the wines that Mastrojanni’s Guido Dispenza says that across 15 years of annual comparative blind tastings of roughly 50 producers’ Brunelli, he’s almost always been able to recognise the wines of Castelnuovo. Andrea Cortonesi of Uccelliera says there is already a recognition of the ‘subzone’, though unofficial, among collectors and the wine trade. Dispenza notes there is still work to be done, particularly given the lack of official recognition.

I personally have heard much enthusiasm for the area among Italian specialists and Italophile collectors – bolstered by the star power of producers like Poggio di Sotto and, more recently, Stella di Campalto. Now, maybe it’s time for awareness of Castelnuovo dell’Abate to move beyond the confines of these circles.

Castelnuovo dell’Abate’s signature style

In talking to several producers about the traits of Castelnuovo’s wines, there is a helpful (and unusual) level of consensus about the overall style. Cortonesi of Uccelliera says the wines of the sub-region are defined by ‘marked complexity and depth, elegant tannic texture and a particular mineral/balsamic note’. Mastrojanni’s Dispenza sees this as ‘refined, dense and velvety tannins from birth, always supported by beautiful acidity and mineral sapidity, which cannot be cancelled out regardless of the winemaking.’ Dr. Stefano Cinelli Colombini of the historic Fattoria dei Barbi estate, whose Vigna del Fiore bottling comes from their land in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, spoke of its ripe but refined style (though he is not in favour of sub-zoning).

Despite belonging to the band of southerly ‘subzones’ that includes Camigliano (home to Castelgiocondo) and Sant’Angelo (Col d’Orcia, Il Poggione, Banfi) – generally known for a more Mediterranean profile with burlier tannins, tar and macchia overtones and darker fruit: more plum than cherry – the fruit of Castelnuovo wines has a quality Dispenza describes as ‘bright’. He likens Castelnuovo’s style to that of Montosoli, a celebrated cru on the northern side of Montalcino hill, which – in a mirror image of Castelnuovo – is a warmer spot in a generally cooler zone.

Beyond the contributions of nature, there is a fair amount of variability in winemaking. The old traditionalist/‘modernist’ split is present here, the former defined by translucent colour, moderate concentration and the use of primarily neutral, larger oak vessels, while the latter prizes deep colour and concentration and utilises more new small-format oak (though, as everywhere in Italy, the latter contingent is, if not disappearing, then certainly not growing).

The ascendant stylistic camp of the moment leans towards natural/biodynamic winemaking, exemplified by Stella di Campalto and Le Ripi, reflecting shifting trends all over Montalcino. Meanwhile, a lighter touch in the vineyards is becoming more universal, with organics and tools like cover crops gaining popularity and aggressive pruning, hedging and yield controls falling out of favour.

Castelnuovo dell’Abate: names to know

Though historic Montalcino wineries like Fattoria dei Barbi and Biondi-Santi have long cultivated land in Castelnuovo, it is the presence of wineries headquartered here with all or most of their land in the subzone that has allowed it to develop a distinct identity.

• Mastrojanni, the acknowledged ‘pioneer’ of Castelnuovo, was founded by lawyer Gabriele Mastrojanni in 1975. It remains largely traditional – using only botti and an extended (36 month) oak maturation period – and specifically dedicated to Castelnuovo nearly 50 years later.
• Poggio di Sotto exists as both an established name (founded in 1989 by old-vine devotee Piero Palmucci, working with Sangiovese legend Giulio Gambelli) and a current darling of the wine world. The estate is finally being celebrated for its freshness and drinkability after years of being considered as ‘too light’, particularly by the American press.
• Ciacci Piccolomini is a deeply historical property, once belonging to the bishop of Montalcino, then the aristocratic Piccolomini d’Aragona family, and which came into the possession of property manager Giuseppe Bianchini (father of current owners Paolo and Lucia) in 1985. Bianchini’s restructuring and replanting of the estate has made it one of the region’s most respected, producing a potent, darker-leaning style.
• Uccelliera is a veritable wine-world darling, a boutique property (6.5ha) whose owner Andrea Cortonesi worked at Ciacci Piccolomini, Poggio di Sotto, Mastrojanni and others before (and after) purchasing the estate from the Bianchini family in 1986. The style is predominantly traditional, with red-fruited brightness, ultra-refined tannins and little, if any, new oak impact.
• Stella di Campalto is a star of the biodynamic movement, the estate born with the 1992 purchase of the ruined Podere San Giuseppe, founded in 1910 but abandoned during WWII. Certified biodynamic since 2005 and focused on single-site bottlings, the estate also late-releases its wines by roughly two years to permit longer bottle ageing. The wines are delicate and understated; prices are less so, with even the Rosso commanding an impressive sum.
• Le Ripi was founded in 1997 by Francesco Illy (of the Illy coffee family), who also owns Mastrojanni. The biodynamic estate was planted from scratch, with one experimental plot in particular (the Bonsai vineyard) planted with an unheard of 62,500 plants per hectare, though it is not used for Brunello. From their Castelnuovo site they produce two Brunelli, an annata and a Riserva, both natural-leaning in style.