Hill of Grace is a story of an ever-evolving family at the centre of some exceptional parcels of vines in Keyneton, in Eden Valley, South Australia. This story is already a long one by any measure, but it is one of legend in Australia. Hill of Grace is a direct translation of ‘Gnadenberg’, a name shared by the church and vineyard. It was the moniker coined by Stephen’s father, Cyril Henschke, himself a fourth-generation winemaker, in the late 1950s. This single-vineyard, single-variety wine, and its portfolio partner Mount Edelstone, another Eden Valley Shiraz, broke away from the pack of more familiar blended Aussie reds nearly seven decades ago to shine a spotlight on what Cyril was convinced was extremely special terroir. His decision was not entirely a gamble, given that the dry-grown Hill of Grace vines were already 100 years old when he bottled the inaugural 1958 vintage. Stephen and his wife Prue became custodians of the vineyards in the mid-1970s. This husband-and-wife team was always fêted to succeed, with Stephen using his father’s winemaking guidance and Prue exploring her extraordinary talents in the vineyard.

There is no doubt that from the turn of the century onwards, the wines have more intensity and volume. But the paler, lighter and more fragrant wines of the 20th century have stood the test of time remaining, on the whole, energetic and balanced. There is a theme, too, creating an indelible link, running from the very first wine to the recently released 2018 vintage, and this is, of course, the consistency of the plot of land itself. Come rain or shine, the vines seem to understand their elemental responsibilities, and the results are always noteworthy and, more often than not, remarkable.

It is fair to say that Henschke Hill of Grace sits atop the pantheon of Australian Shiraz alongside Penfolds Grange, and yet they could not be more different in philosophy, style, timbre and taste. Where Grange is often overtly muscular and extracted, bullying the palate and taking a robust stance in one’s flavour memory, Hill of Grace is more subtle, layered, velvety and unhurried. When I reread my Hill of Grace tasting notes, I could be writing about top-flight Pomerol instead of South Australian Shiraz and this might explain why these wines seem immediately attractive and easier to understand than Grange. I have often thought, particularly about older vintages of Hill of Grace, that they do not quite stand the test of time, but this is patently incorrect, as this remarkable tasting has shown. Yes, these are tender, sensual Shirazes that senesce – full of grace – in the same way that a Pinot Noir might and, again, this makes them otherworldly, luxurious, calming and complete.

The fame of this wine is universal, and it has inspired the production of Hill of Roses, which is made from younger vines from a block adjacent to the ‘Grandfathers’ (the original block from c.1860), while the Post Office Blocks 1 and 2, Windmill Block, House Block and Church Block make up Hill of Grace. One day, when the time is right, one assumes that the Hill of Roses will cease to exist as the fruit will be subsumed into Hill of Grace proper. Perhaps it is good news that Hill of Roses comes from Post Office Block 3, which is 0.94ha. This eventual addition to the Hill of Grace footprint will boost the overall plot of worthy vines to a fraction over 5ha, a little larger than Burgundy Grand Cru superstar Romanée-Conti and a fraction smaller than La Tâche. As such, there will only ever be a finite amount of Hill of Grace made, which will further increase its desirability as time passes.

Prior to this historic tasting, I was promised we would be putting 18 vintages under the microscope to chart the evolution of this historic wine. On the day, the Henschkes generously opened no fewer than 26 vintages of Hill of Grace, and every wine told the story of its time. To date, 57 wines have been made over 61 vintages (Hill of Grace was not produced in 1960, 1974, 2000 and 2011), and this fact alone demonstrates that this vineyard is indeed hallowed ground.

Judging by the wines, and their development over six decades, who is to say that there are not more extraordinary chapters to come? As I left, after dinner, during which even older vintages were poured, Justine noted that we would do it again in ten years as long as the library stocks were still available. I imagine that the Henschkes have the self-control required, and I know they have the long-term vision not to raid the cellar too often: I have made a provisional note in my diary for 2033.