Whether it’s racy dry whites, fragrant reds, refreshing fizz or unique aromatic varieties, Alsace has it all. Yet this region, tucked into the north-east corner of France, is often overlooked. Why? Because its varied wine styles and grape varieties refuse to be typecast easily; offering so much to the wine lover seemingly counts against it. Given the nature of contemporary tastes in wine, however, Alsace is a region ripe for reassessment.
The varied wine styles and grape varieties of Alsace refuse to be typecast easily
Crémant d’Alsace is the region’s most dynamic category. These traditional method sparkling wines went from representing just under 25% of the region’s total wine production in 2005 to 40% by 2025. Their success is not surprising and is helped by a latitude almost identical to that of Champagne.
Alsace Crémants, chiefly based on Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois, come with the kind of cool, natural freshness that’s so desirable in fizz. Most are clean, bright aperitif styles but there are artisanal, longer-aged cuvées that will impress sparkling-wine aficionados. The rosé category also merits attention: by law, the rosés have to be made from Pinot Noir, so every single bottle of pink Crémant d’Alsace is a saignée-method rosé – only without the hefty price tag.
Lovers of Pinot Noir should also tune into Alsace. This is where things have changed most dramatically in recent years. Pinot Noir has long been the red grape of Alsace and, for the longest time, it was turned into juicy, light-bodied, pale reds that made for delicious, easy drinking but would not have impressed serious Pinot lovers – this has changed fundamentally. Climate change and ambition have wrought wonders. When a law change in 2011 finally permitted separate rulebooks for Alsace’s 51 grands crus, rather than one general rule for all, growers in three sites applied to have Pinot Noir approved as a permitted grape in the grands crus of Kirchberg in Barr, Hengst in Wintzenheim and Vorbourg in Rouffach. The first two were finally approved for the 2022 vintage and Vorbourg, at long last, for the 2024 vintage. But even outside these sites, Pinot Noir makes exquisitely elegant wines, especially in the sites of Jurassic and Triassic limestone that crop up in the varied geological mosaic of Alsace. These wines can rightfully take their place in any line-up of fine Pinot Noirs.
In 2022, Alsace also changed the rulebook for Riesling so that all non-late harvest wines must be dry. This finally put an end to lingering associations of sweetness with those flute-shaped bottles. These expressive, often site-specific wines are perfect for moods and situations where finesse is prized over power, where fine, ripe acidity takes the lead in accentuating subtle flavours and complements rather than dominates. Their lightness of body and moderate alcohol levels dial into that same desire for lightness and transparency that defines much modern cooking.
For Riesling fans, Alsace offers beautiful combinations of bedrocks: why not compare Rieslings grown on granite, limestone and marl and find your favourite? And lovers of sweet Rieslings need not worry: beguiling Vendanges Tardives and Selections de Grains Nobles, i.e. late harvest and nobly sweet styles, are still made and are always clearly labelled.
Alsace finds itself right back on trend with wines that are fresh, light and nuanced
With its Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, Alsace holds another card up its sleeve. These more aromatic varieties are still made in a spectrum of dry, off-dry and medium sweet, but the choices put them in a sweet spot for pairing with dishes that also play with gentle sweetness while staying savoury. This happens when spice and fruit are combined, say in a Mexican pineapple salsa with chilli, in fruit- or honey-glazed hams, or in North African tagines or pastillas. Various Asian cuisines also play this game: in Thai cuisine, for instance, accents of palm sugar counter chilli-heat and citrus tanginess, while sweet-savoury hoisin sauce lends mellow depth to Cantonese favourites like char siu-style barbecues.
With these kinds of flavours, off-dry and medium-sweet wines come into their own and can pick up and resonate with these sweeter strands of the food. Often dismissed as difficult to pair, they open up possibilities where dry wines start to struggle because they are not bone-dry or decidedly sweet but somewhere in between. Once you accept this playfulness in the wines’ balance, these pairings suggest themselves. The sweetness scale, mandatory on every bottle since 2021, has ended the guessing game that once may have prevented you from opening bottles.
Away from the spotlight, it’s clear that Alsace has quietly continued in a multifaceted vein, honing almost every style, and now finds itself right back on trend with wines that are fresh, light and nuanced – and still incredible value.
The IWSC, in partnership with the Interprofessional Committee of Alsace Wines (CIVA), recently hosted a panel of judges for a tasting of 50 Alsace wines encompassing a range of grapes and styles. The judges selected ten favourites, listed below, that exemplify how the region’s wines are perfectly suited to modern tastes.
Ten on-trend wines from Alsace
Frey-Sohler, Crémant d’Alsace NV
‘Bright and expressive, the nose bursts with vibrant autolytic notes. On the palate, lovely kaffir lime and exotic pineapple intertwine with a touch of yellow apple sweetness, creating a beautifully generous yet balanced experience. The long finish invites you back for more.’
£22.50, Le Bon Vin
Allimant-Laugner, Platine Crémant d’Alsace 2021
‘Delicate autolytic nuances intertwine with ripe green apple and floral hints. On the palate, a vibrant frothy mousse dances alongside refreshing pineapple, showcasing a racy elegance. The journey culminates in a refined, stony finish that leaves a lasting impression.’
Stéphane & Mickael Moltès, Millésimé, Crémant d’Alsace 2020
‘The nose opens with concentrated autolysis with intriguing suggestions of mushroom, while the lively mousse and vibrant acidity provide an energizing structure. Creamy ready notes linger delightfully, showcasing a richer, more evolved style reminiscent of a refined Blanc de Blanc.’
Kuentz-Bas, Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Geisberg 2022
‘The compelling nose unfurls with a refined intensity, revealing understated aromatics that entice the senses. On the palate, a lively spritz dances alongside a mineral salinity, complemented by a fine acidic backbone. The beautifully balanced finish showcases elegant complexity and a racy texture, leaving a lasting impression of purity.’
Domaine Jean Sipp, Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé 2021
The bouquet bursts with ripe mandarin and invigorating lime zest, exuding a super clean freshness. On the palate, lip-smacking acidity perfectly balances the concentrated fruit, revealing vibrant touches of smoky mineral and papaya. The finish is tense and lively, with a hint of stony nuance that lingers delightfully.
Dopff Au Moulin, Riesling, Alsace Grand cru Schoenenbourg 2019
‘With alluring aromas of white blossom and honeyed notes, this wine entices from the first sip. On the palate, exotic papaya and juicy pineapple mingle with a hint of kaffir lime and mandarin rind. The slightly oily finish is vibrant and energetic, revealing a lovely balance with secondary nuances of gardenia and candied ginger.’
Domaine Boeckel, Sylvaner, Alsace Grand Cru Zotzenberg 2023
‘Opening on the nose, delicate floral notes intertwined with nuances of green spice. On the palate, it delivers a captivating interplay of bitter almond and candied quince, enhanced by a luscious, waxy texture. The finish is long, showcasing juicy minerals and a smoky elegance, leaving a lasting impression.’
André Lorentz, Muscat, Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2024
‘A captivating nose revealing grape and ethereal elderflower entwines with delicate impressions of melon, inviting the senses. The palate reveals a beautifully pure, expressive character, underpinned by nice generality. It concludes with a refined, lingering finish that leaves you wanting more.’
Domaine Muré, Clos Saint Landelin, Gewurztraminer, Alsace Grand Cru Vorbourg 2022
Brimming with lovely rose notes, the aroma entices before revealing a clean, refined palate of honeyed fig and succulent mango. A hint of roasted pineapple and curry powder adds depth, culminating in a textured, gently oily finish that lingers beautifully.
Domaine Saint-Rémy, Pinot Noir, Alsace Grand Cru Hengst 2022
‘The bouquet bursts with bright, lively red cherry fruit and a charming herbal crunch. On the palate, ripe black fruit and subtle vanilla intertwine, supported by firm tannins and a refreshing, juicy texture. The finish is elegantly stony, adorned with a hint of violet perfume.’
