The European Centre for Research, Environmental Sustainability and Advancement of Mountain Viticulture (CERVIM) defines high-altitude vineyards as above 500m and a number of rosés in the Report, especially from the hotter regions of Lebanon and Greece, came from sites at 1,000m above sea level (asl). While this is high in Europe, it is commonplace in the likes of Mendoza in Argentina, where most vineyards fall between 600m and 1,100m. Raúl Acha, the technical director at Bodegas López de Heredia in Rioja, points out that while the estate’s rosé vineyards are ‘only’ at 650m, they are located in a very cool region in Rioja Alta. Jorge Monzon’s Penas Aladas clarete also comes from a particularly cold site at 900m and has §. Acha points out that the cooler sites give longer ripening, resulting in better balance, acidity, more intensity and less alcohol, all of which contribute to high-quality rosé. The combination of lower alcohol, freshness and ripe fruit – and often the inclusion of vibrant aromatics – is a clear characteristic of these higher altitude rosés.

Read more: The Rosé Wine Report

Freshness, especially in the hotter regions, is one of the more desirable qualities of higher-altitude rosés, and these vineyards are naturally becoming sought after in light of the climate crisis. The greater diurnal temperature differences result in long, slow ripening, which achieves good fruit and retains acidity and freshness; from up here, there are fewer extreme heat days and later harvest dates.

Friedrich Schatz, whose vineyards are over 700m in Andalucia-Ronda in southern Spain, says that in his hot climate there is little extra coolness during the day but the nights can be as much as 20-30ºC degrees cooler. Antonio Capaldo of Feudi San Gregorio in Campania is also reaching for freshness in his altitudinous wine. His rosé, Visione, grows on volcanic soils above 500m resulting in Aglianico – normally a big blockbuster of a variety – that boasts fresher fruit as well as lower alcohol and tannins. This is still a new area of discovery, as producers look beyond their red wines to see whether different varieties can reveal a different profile at altitude suitable for rosé – high-altitude Zinfandel rosé, maybe?

As mentioned before, though, it’s not always easy growing wine on high. High-altitude vineyards are often steep, exposed and windy, contributing to cooler but drier conditions. In Mendoza, snowmelt provides water for a natural irrigation system in months without rainfall. And in some higher-altitude vineyards, clay soils are good at retaining moisture.

Indeed, very specific soil types can also provide the right conditions for developing rosé at altitude. With erosion, mountain vineyards have thinner topsoils, fewer nutrients, and better drainage, reducing berry size and lowering the pH of the grapes. For Bastida and winemaker Rosana Lisa, these soils give more stable colour, higher levels of acidity which imbue the wine with a greater capacity for ageing. Acha has found that the best soils for his rosé are ones with a significant percentage of ferrous clay, which contributes to better intensity and acidity. Flor de Muga, also in Rioja, comes from clay-limestone and red iron-clay soils. Yarden’s Tinta Cao in Israel – whose floral, textural Tinta Cao is technically sourced at 400m above the nearby Sea of Galilee at minus 200m – is grown on the oldest soils in the Golan with deep, high-clay content and slightly more alkaline soils compared to the more acidic soils found elsewhere.

While many agree that the extra coolness of higher elevation is helpful in creating well-balanced rosés, it is not just about aiming for the highest plots available. There is no simple answer to define the quality of high-altitude vineyards, with all agreeing that it is a complicated equation of local temperatures, orientation, humidity, winds, soils and variety which make the most of the location.

One thing that is certain is that these vineyards require extra care and attention to balance the complex range of parameters, which results in some very special rosés. Expect to see a greater number of these rosé wines appearing as climate change pushes producers to look for cooler sites and a more innovative use of grape varieties.