Cabernet Sauvignon is the emblematic grape of Margaret River and is responsible for putting the region firmly on the fine wine map. The region – home to iconic Cabernet producers such as Moss Wood, Leeuwin Estate and Cullen – has enjoyed a rapid and remarkable rise since it was pioneered in the late 1960s, thanks to the well documented work of Dr John Gladstones. The climatic and geological similarities identified by Gladstones between Bordeaux and Margaret River provided the impetus for a flurry of Cabernet plantings, which have become firmly integrated within the region’s breath-taking coastal landscapes.
Many of the world’s finest Cabernets come from maritime climates, which can bring rain, rot and therefore increased disease pressure. Yet Margaret River also has a Mediterranean climate and enjoys a warm long and dry summer meaning there is little such pressure. The cooling sea breeze ensures a long and steady ripening season that helps build complexity in the wines, which is particularly beneficial for Cabernet and its structure.
![Grape selection](https://cdn.cluboenologique.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/29165007/margaret-river-grapes.jpg)
I have always loved the tannin profile of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, and this is something that the region’s best producers have honed over the years. Rounded, silky, plush and fine-grained tannins are hallmarks of the region’s best Cabernets, with just a hint of peppery pyrazine in the background. This comes from the place but also thanks to a specific clone, the Houghton clone, which dominates the region’s plantings. Of unknown origin (possibly from South Africa or Europe), it has small berries, bunches and low yields, which gives real concentration to the wines.
What I appreciate the most is the region’s steadfast dedication and commitment to Cabernet Sauvignon
Blessed with a superb consistency of vintages, winemakers could become complacent and formulaic. Yet the finest estates take this as an opportunity to focus on the minutiae of details both in the vineyard and in the winery. Walking through the vibrant and vivacious biodynamic vineyards of Cullen that are bursting with life and vitality is a life-affirming, heart-warming experience. More and more top estates, including Woodlands Wines are now certified organic, and this increased focus on organic and biodynamic practices was very evident during my recent visit.
![Glenn Goodall of Xanadu](https://cdn.cluboenologique.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/29164423/Glenn-Goodall.jpg)
Likewise, in the winery there has been experimentation with new vessels such as eggs, amphora and suchlike. Yet what I appreciate the most is the region’s steadfast dedication and commitment to Cabernet. While it may have drifted out of fashion over the past 15 or so years, producers chose to hone their work in the winery and focus on drinkability and accessibility. Cabernet can be notoriously difficult and unapproachable in its youth, demanding five to ten years minimum of ageing. Yet here the wines are increasingly more open at a younger age, yet still possessing the ability to age and improve, something of a holy grail for drinkers.
Whilst judging with IWSC in Margaret River, we were treated to a tasting of some of the region’s iconic wines (tasting notes below) form various vintages hosted at Leeuwin Estate. The region is largely blessed with very good conditions and has enjoyed a long run of very good to excellent vintages. 2017 (and 2019 to a lesser extent) was one of the cooler and trickier vintages of recent years, yet still some wonderful wines were made. 2010, 2018 and 2020 are some of the finest vintages of recent years and should be on collectors’ radars.
![](https://cdn.cluboenologique.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/29163925/Lenton-Brae-2.jpg)
There are no official sub-regions of Margaret River, despite there being six defined unofficial areas. Essentially these go from warmer in the north to cooler in the south as follows: Yallingup, Carbunup, Wilyabrup, Treeton, Wallcliffe and Karridale. There have been moves to make these official, specifically from producers within Wilyabrup such as Cullen, Moss Wood, Lenton Brae and Woodlands who believe that their Cabernet terroir should be recognised. Much to their chagrin, these have thus far been rebuffed. I also believe that these sub-regions need to be recognised officially to help the region progress and show its diversity.
I believe that these sub-regions need to be recognised officially to help the region progress and show its diversity
For collectors, Margaret River offers good value for money in the global context of Cabernet Sauvignon. I tasted the 2005 vintage of the stellar Moss Wood, a wine that is firmly in its drinking window from an excellent vintage. This is available to buy currently for circa £130 per bottle, which when compared to much of comparative quality Napa or Bordeaux is an attractive proposition. Margaret River still flies slightly under the radar for some consumers and arguably lacks the cachet and recognition garnered by some of its competitors – yet qualitatively it more than deserves its place at the top table.
18 shining examples of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon
Producer | Name | Vintage | Region | Subregion | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Moss Wood, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Moss Wood | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2005 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Cullen, Diana Madeline 2019
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Cullen | Diana Madeline | 2019 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Evans & Tate, Redbrook Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Evans & Tate | Redbrook Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon | 2018 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Leeuwin Estate | Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon | 2014 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Moss Wood, Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Moss Wood | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2003 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Moss Wood, Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Moss Wood | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2014 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Moss Wood, Ribbon Vale, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Moss Wood | Ribbon Vale, Cabernet Sauvignon | 2018 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Vasse Felix, Tom Cullity 2019
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Vasse Felix | Tom Cullity | 2019 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Juniper Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Juniper Estate | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2010 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Lenton Brae, Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Lenton Brae | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2021 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Voyager Estate, MJW Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Voyager Estate | MJW Cabernet Sauvignon | 2020 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Voyager Estate, Project V9 Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Voyager Estate | Project V9 Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon | 2014 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Xanadu, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Xanadu | Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon | 2014 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Cape Mentelle, Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Cape Mentelle | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2020 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Hay Shed Hill, Block 2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Hay Shed Hill | Block 2 Cabernet Sauvignon | 2020 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Pierro, VR Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Pierro | VR Cabernet Sauvignon | 2018 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Umamu Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Umamu Estate | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2013 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone | |
Woody Nook, Gallagher’s Choice 2013
Western Australia
, South Western Australia Zone
|
Woody Nook | Gallagher’s Choice | 2013 | Western Australia | South Western Australia Zone |