There is simply something in the air that tells you you’re in Cognac. Sitting at the heart of a vast region to which it gives its name, imbued with gentle wafts of the ‘angel’s share’, the town is a beguiling base to learn more about its storied spirit, explore its bucolic surroundings and, of course, chart the Charente, the river that was once its lifeline. So what are the best Cognac houses to visit?
With a history dating back to the 15th century and a production process that requires both patience and perception, Cognac can seem complicated, but thankfully there is no shortage of those willing to share their expertise to help demystify it, with experiences ranging from accessible to ultra-exclusive, while the town’s tourism offer has been transformed over the past decade, with the addition of a luxury hotel and two Michelin-starred restaurants.
‘What makes Cognac and its surroundings such a great place to visit is the unique combination of a world famous spirit and a region that has remained authentic and deeply connected to its land,’ says Thomas Soret at Frapin, an historic producer in the neighbouring village of Segonzac. ‘Visitors come for Cognac, of course, but they quickly discover that the experience goes far beyond tasting. It is about walking through vineyards, exploring historic cellars, following the Charente, discovering charming villages, meeting passionate producers and understanding a craft that has been passed down through generations.’
‘Visitors come for Cognac, of course, but they quickly discover that the experience goes far beyond tasting’
– Thomas Soret, Frapin
A region of around a million hectares, Cognac consists of six crus – Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires – all classified by soil type, producing four main categories of Cognac – VS (Very Special), VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), XO (Extra Old) and XXO (even older) – based on the age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend. The majority of Cognac is exported, so the town naturally extends a warm welcome to visitors.
‘Cognac is both a culture and a micro-economy that has reached out across the world for centuries, meeting people in their own countries and building relationships far beyond France.’ says Rebecca Montgomery at Delamain, in Jarnac, a few miles upriver. ‘For that reason, the Cognaçais take a special pride in being able to welcome visitors here, on their own soil, and to introduce them not only to the product, but to the savoir faire, the way of life and the terroir that make it possible.’
Planning ahead is worthwhile as most visits need to be booked in advance, and it’s best to limit yourself to a couple of houses each day, as Cognac is definitely something to savour.
Cognac houses to visit
Rémy Martin
Cognac
Founded in 1724, still based in the heart of the town, Rémy Martin is one of the oldest Cognac houses and one of the ‘big four’, but, despite its size, it retains an air of elegance and exclusivity, offering a range of tours, from €25 for a visit to its production facility at nearby Merpins to €3,580 for an experience built around its finest Cognac, Louis XIII. remymartin.com
One to try: Rémy Martin VSOP Cognac, Tesco, £45
Frapin
Segonzac
Based in Segonzac, in the heart of Grand Champagne, with a vinous history dating back to 1270, Frapin remains under family ownership, retaining control of every aspect of production. Options range from a museum visit with tasting, to a distillery tour, or an experience at Château Fontpinot, the family estate. cognac-frapin.com
One to try: Frapin Chateau de Fontpinot XO Cognac, The Whisky Exchange, £121
Hennessy
Cognac
Established by an Irishman, Richard Hennessy, in 1765, now part of the huge LVMH luxury goods empire, Hennessy offers a state-of-the-art, immersive visitor experience from its base in Cognac, alongside the Charente, along with river boat tours and premium experiences. hennessy.com
One to try: Hennessy VS Cognac, Sainsbury’s, £38.50
Delamain
Jarnac
With its enchanting, atmospheric ageing rooms, filled with barrels and demi-johns, Delamain specialises in long-aged Cognacs, sourced from Grand Champagne, offering a range of experiences from a €35 tour and tasting to an unforgettable cellar supper for €295 (based on 6-8 guests). delamain-cognac.com
One to try: Delamain XO Pale and Dry Cognac Grande Champagne, Tanners, £97
Hine
Jarnac
With its Royal Warrant, Hine is another of Jarnac’s venerable houses, famous for its ‘early landed’ Cognacs, designed for the British palate. There’s a visitor centre and an imaginative range of add-ons, including cocktail-making or Cognac and cheese pairing (each €115) or a combination of both (€130). hine.com
One to try: Hine Rare Cognac, Master of Malt, £49.95
Restaurants and hotels to visit in Cognac
- Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa Housed in the historic Maison Monnet, a former Cognac house now an imposing fusion of 18th century industrial architecture and modern design, this luxurious five-star hotel and spa, with its rooftop bar and two restaurants, was a revelation when it opened in 2018, transforming the town’s accommodation offer and winning a Michelin star. Let the concierge book your visits, borrow one of its restored 2CVs for a spin through the vines and enjoy a Cognac cocktail at the glamorous Bar 1838 where there’s nightly jazz.
- Les Foudres A Michelin-starred restaurant within the Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa, located in a former cooperage, the tables are set beneath wooden foudres (huge barrels), offering a stylish tasting menu, with wine pairings.
- La Ribaudière Michelin-starred dining in a contemporary setting alongside the Charente in the neighbouring village of Bourg-Charente, opposite the home of Grand Marnier, specialising in farm-to-table cooking.
