Cognac is a byword for luxury and indulgence. It has a rich history and a general air of sophistication – with a whiff of decadence for good measure. Other grape-based-spirit lovers may disagree but the French spirit confidently wears the crown, with the best Cognac expressions exchanging hands for many thousands of pounds.
Such a noble spirit starts off life in a rather unremarkable way – a low-alcohol, high-acid base wine made from the workhorse Ugni Blanc variety (the same grape as Trebbiano in Italy). But two distillations later, and these wines are transformed into an elegant spirit capable of ageing for several decades.
The various terms you see on a bottle of Cognac offer a clue to how long it has spent in French oak casks. VS (‘Very Special’) is the youngest, and refers to those aged for two years and ideal for mixing; VSOPs (‘Very Superior Old Pale’) spend at least four years in cask; XO (‘Extra Old’) are aged for a minimum of a decade, but usually much longer. Single-vintage Cognacs exist, too, and must be the product of just one year’s grape harvest.
This year’s IWSC saw some terrific Cognacs scooping the top gongs. Scoring a phenomenal 98/100 pts, Claude Thorin Sarl, XO Cognac offered ‘bursts of delightfully bright fruit and peachy sweetness on the palate’. Another high scorer was Cognac Frapin, Château Fontpinot XO Cognac.
While representing the younger examples of the spirit, Ferrand Cognac, 1840 Original Formula Cognac was awarded 96 points and a gold medal by the judges who were quick to praise its blend of ‘bold fruit aromas’ and ‘subtle spices’.
Each spirit was blind-tasted at this year’s IWSC by an expert panel, including Edward Bates, buyer for Jeroboams, and presenter and Club Oenologique contributing editor Joel Harrison.
Cognac may be dominated by the ‘big four’ houses of Hennessy, Courvoirsier, Rémy Martin and Martell, but scratch under the surface and you’ll discover how times are changing for the spirit – propelled by a particular focus on provenance.
The following is our selection of the best Cognacs from the IWSC 2024.
HOW ARE SPIRITS JUDGED?
Each spirit sample is pre-poured into numbered glasses and assessed blindly by the judges as part of the rigorous tasting process. IWSC spirit judges are experts in their field, from critics to buyers. For evidence, see our full list of judges.
HOW DO WE SCORE THESE SPIRITS?
Only the best spirits sampled receive a Gold or Silver award. To win Gold, spirits have to score between 95 and 100 points. Meanwhile, Silver spirits range from 90 to 94 points. To better understand, you can consult the IWSC’s scoring system.
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The best Cognac from the IWSC 2024
Claude Thorin Sarl, XO Cognac
Cognac Frapin, Château Fontpinot XO Cognac
Ferrand Cognac, 1840 Original Formula Cognac
Château de Beaulon, Grand XO Cognac
FTD - Cognac Maxime Trijol, XO Cognac
Cognac Frapin, VIP XO Cognac
Cognac Raymond Ragnaud, XO Cognac
FTD - Cognac Maxime Trijol, XO Cognac
Maison Ansac, A.E. Dor Extra Cognac
Sas Sy Partners, Michel Lebeau Tresor Extra Old Cognac
Martell & Co, Cordon Bleu Extra Old Cognac
Cognac François Voyer, Extra Cognac
Painturaud Freres, Vieille Réserve Cognac
