Armagnac consultant and educator Amanda Garnham spoke to Lucy Shaw to give Club Oenologique readers the lowdown on her favourite places to drink French brandy. Her recommendations include speakeasy-style spots in the US, five-star hotels in rural France and the UK, plus bars and restaurants in Bordeaux, Paris and Armagnac itself.
Where are your favourite places to drink Armagnac?
The Brandy Library in Manhattan, run by Armagnac Musketeer Flavien Desoblin, is cosy and intimate, with the most extensive range of Armagnacs I’ve ever seen. Also worth a look in the US are the Chicago Club, which serves vintage Armagnacs on its terrace overlooking Lake Michigan, and Bhakta Spirits in Vermont, run by WhistlePig founder Raj Bhakta. There you can enjoy an Old Fashioned made with Bhakta 1928, a rye whiskey fortified with 1928 Armagnac.
How about in the region itself?
Armagnac is the spirit world’s best-kept secret, and there’s nowhere better to enjoy it than where it’s made, a beautiful area with rolling hills and historic towns. I run a B&B at my home – Mulés in Lagardère – where guests can enjoy Armagnacs from my personal collection at the tastings I organise. Citrus restaurant in Condom has a great Armagnac offering, as does new bar Repaire d’Epicurien, which serves it with tapas.
Do any hotels have standout selections?
Les Prés d’Eugénie in Landes serves 20 Armagnacs by the glass, including a few from its own estate: Château de Sandemagnan. The Hôtel de France in Auch champions the spirit with a wall of 30 Armagnacs and a brandy chariot [a dedicated drinks trolley] in the grand dining room. Order a café Gascon, an Armagnac twist on an Irish Coffee. In the UK, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons has an impressive list that includes Cobrafire, an Armagnac eau-de-vie from Domaine d’Espérance.
Which restaurants go big on Armagnac?
At Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, you’ll find her brother Marc’s Armagnacs on pour, while at Marsan in Paris she makes a baba infused with Darroze Armagnac. In Bordeaux, La Tupina, with its with open fires, serves 26 Armagnacs, which the chef uses in his sauces. In the region itself head to the Loft Café, a cosy venue with a vast offering, and local favourite Le Bastignac, which serves simple food and a rotating selection of Armagnacs.
Where can we enjoy it straight from the still?
Château Arton in Haut Armagnac offers tastings and tours with the option to enjoy a meal in the garden. At Domaine d’Espérance in Bas Armagnac, Claire de Montesquiou specialises in expressions made from Folle Blanche and Baco. Visits include a cellar tour, a tasting of four Armagnacs and a blending session where you can bottle your own XO.
Armagnac isn’t far from Bordeaux… Where should we go there?
Head to Ayawasca Cocktail Club for a novel take on an ancient spirit. Mixologist Grégory Bruneau’s cocktails are works of art. I love the Chériz, made with Dartigalogue Blanche Armagnac, shochu, Fino Sherry and toasted rice syrup. Another must is Le Rituel du Druide (Druid’s Ritual), made with Laballe Armagnac, aquafaba, beetroot brine, and Pedro Ximénez Sherry infused with Sichuan pepper.
Is anyone championing the spirit in Paris?
Le Syndicat is breathing new life into what owner Romain Le Moueillic calls ‘grandpa spirits’. Its menu features Armagnac cocktails, including the PBJ, which marries Armagnac with strawberry liqueur, peanut butter and Alisier eau-de-vie from Alsace. Gentlemen 1919 takes you back to the 1920s with its fumoir and Armagnac cocktails, while Le Lipstick in Pigalle has kitsch décor and is home to the Cobrafire Signature, made with Cobrafire eau-de-vie, pear liqueur, rose syrup and grapefruit tonic.
Are there any Armagnac events worth attending?
Armagnac en Fête, held on the last weekend of October, is a great chance to taste eau de vie directly from an alembic still and to wander among the upended barrels that serve as tables in the village square. In March, Club Armagnac Bordeaux hosted its first Fest’Armagnac, with mixology sessions, Armagnac masterclasses and brandies from 37 exhibitors.
