It’s hard to say which sub-zones handled these travails the best; it seems to be more a matter of how individual producers responded rather than a matter of terroir differences. Vintners had a few options on how to handle things, either in the vineyard or in the winery. For many of the most successful wines, it took rigorous selection of fruit at every step, regardless of the cost in terms of volume. There was a lot of fruit left on the ground in the vineyard, and careful sorting at harvest weeded out a few more tonnes of damaged grapes. At Poggio di Sotto, for example, yields were tiny. “In 2014 we had 16,000 bottles of Rosso, and only 4,000 of Brunello; it’s one cask, really,” said Luigina Villadei of Colle Massari, which bought Poggio di Sotto in 2011. “In that case the wine wasn’t able to age four years in oak; it did three in oak and two in bottle. It just didn’t have enough structure.” There won’t be any Riserva in 2014, she added.
Most of the resulting wines still show the character of the vintage: they are generally lighter, with brighter fruit and not as much power and depth as in other years; they are nonetheless enjoyable and the best examples highlight the more elegant side of Sangiovese.