In red wines, the rich, chocolatey, full-bodied style persists, but a more refined, elegant approach is fast becoming mainstream. The savoury Xinomavro (reminiscent of Nebbiolo) and the velvety Agiorgitiko produce outstanding terroir wines; dry Mavrodaphne, Mavrotragano and Limniona have a thrilling future.
And don’t forget the sweet wines of Greece: sun-dried Vinsanto from Santorini, Samos and Liatiko from Crete, the Port-like Mavrodaphne, and the air-dried sweet wines of Siatista in Macedonia.
A new generation of producers, together with the emergence of a natural-wine scene, takes a delicate, hands-off approach to winemaking. Alcohol, overripeness, extraction and use of new oak have been moderated. Efforts are focused on the vineyard in the constant search for grapes that will express the distinctiveness and purity of their type.
There’s been a spectacular evolution in technique. Biodynamics in the vineyard, winemaking in clay amphorae and concrete vats, the emphasis on old oak and fewer additives – these are all commonplace. The approaches are not novel but are a reversion to the heritage and tradition of Greece.