Bordeaux
Wine Club O Collection 14 March 2019

10 years on: Ella Lister reviews Bordeaux 2009

For many reasons (not all of them positive), 2009 is one of the most famous vintages ever produced in Bordeaux. Ella Lister finds out how the wines are looking ten years on
Introduction and recommendations by
Ella Lister

The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux became a legend almost overnight. A glorious growing season produced some monumental wines, and their release coincided with, and further contributed to, a fine-wine market bull run.

When the 2009s were released en primeur, average prices more than doubled compared to 2008. The reputation of the vintage, coupled with the seemingly unstoppable fine-wine market, meant that consumers were happy to shell out for the wines. The 2009 en primeur campaign was the biggest ever, with sales by volume and value through the roof, in part propelled by unprecedented interest from China. By mid-2011, bottles of Lafite 2009 were changing hands for more than £1,000.

The crash in July 2011 saw Bordeaux prices fall by as much as 40% over the next three years. En primeur buyers of 2009s – and especially the significantly pricier 2010s – understandably felt cheated. After all, the point of buying wine before it is physically available (if it isn’t to acquire an otherwise unattainable allocation) is to pay less for it.

The 2009 prices are nothing like they were at the top of the market, but today the wines are still more expensive than any other recent vintage. Readers willing to wait may want to consider buying 2014, 2015, 2016, and even 2010, which, apart from offering excellent wines for often lower prices, may ultimately present better investment opportunities.

However, 2009 is not to be missed for the hedonists among you. Revisiting nearly 70 of the region’s best wines at 10 years of age presented a unique opportunity to see if – or rather where – the hype was merited.

Bordeaux 2009s have a reputation for being tarty – or libertine, if you prefer. The best are flirtatious, yes, beguiling and intoxicating, but they are also incredibly fine, pure, and elegant. Crucially, they are more approachable than the indomitable 2010s, though the best will also grow old gracefully. One of Pomerol’s finest winemakers, Christian Moueix referred to 2009 as a combination of three legendary vintages, the 1982, 1989 and 1990.

Weather conditions were close to perfect: the summer was warm (but not too hot), dry (but not too dry) and above all long, providing producers with the luxury of choice as to when to pick the grapes. But sometimes too much choice can be a handicap, and some châteaux succumbed to the temptation of pushing nature’s gift of ripeness and concentration beyond reasonable limits. The properties which picked too late were left with monstrous levels of alcohol – already at record highs in 2009.

In such a generous vintage, winemakers had to be careful not to extract too much from the grapes if they were to maintain balance and elegance. The worst 2009s are tired: mutton dressed as lamb. Happily, they represent a small minority.

Saint-Emilion – ‘a theatre of excess’, in the words of winemaking consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt – was the worst hit. Merlot, its predominant grape variety, resists heat less well than Cabernet Sauvignon, the Left Bank’s leading grape variety. However, the appellation also produced some exquisite wines, among the best of the vintage, when carefully made. Meanwhile, its neighbour Pomerol seemed less afflicted by overheated Merlot.

The Left Bank was more consistent, particularly in Pessac-Léognan, Saint-Julien and Pauillac, although I found less to get really excited about in Margaux (with a few exceptions, including the eponymous first growth and its second wine). On the whole, Bordeaux 2009’s quality is less homogeneous than it might have been, and its wines should not be bought indiscriminately. Here are 36 top picks, from all appellations and styles, that will not disappoint:

Top Rated Bottles

Château Cheval Blanc, 1er grand cru classé A, 2009

Score
100
100
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2045
  • RRP £690
1er grand cru classé A
  • Classic
  • Complex
  • Mint chocolate chip
Learn More

Château Latour, 1er cru classé, 2009

Score
100
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2023
  • To 2050
  • RRP £837
1er cru classé
  • Black fruit
  • Lean
  • Long-lasting
Learn More

Château Le Pin, 2009

Score
100
100
Pomerol AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2045
  • RRP £4,280
Château Le Pin
  • Fresh
  • Ripe
  • Succulent
Learn More

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Cru classé, 2009

Score
99
100
Pessac-Léognan AOP
  • From 2024
  • To 2050
  • RRP £480
Cru classé
  • Long-lasting
  • Meaty
  • Powerful
Learn More

Château Petrus, 2009

Score
98
100
Pomerol AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2050
  • RRP £2950
Château Petrus
  • Intense
  • Perfumed
  • Refined
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Château Haut-Brion, 1er cru classé, 2009

Score
98
100
Pessac-Léognan AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2045
  • RRP £650
1er cru classé
  • Impressive
  • Savoury
  • Tannic
Learn More

Château Margaux, 1er cru classé, 2009

Score
98
100
Margaux AOP
  • From 2024
  • To 2040
  • RRP £662
1er cru classé
  • Juicy
  • Powerful
  • Refined
Learn More

Château Angélus, 1er grand cru classé B, 2009

Score
97
100
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2040
  • RRP £343
1er grand cru classé B
  • Expressive
  • Herbal
  • Meaty
Learn More

Château Ducru Beaucaillou, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
97
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2035
  • RRP £235
2ème cru classé
  • Alluring
  • Classy
  • Pure
Learn More

Château Lafite Rothschild, 1er cru classé, 2009

Score
97
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2045
  • RRP £808
1er cru classé
  • Delicate
  • Floral
  • Savoury
Learn More

Château Montrose, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
97
100
Saint-Estephe AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2050
  • RRP £200
2ème cru classé
  • Poised
  • Tannic
  • Well-integrated
Learn More

Château Mouton Rothschild, 1er cru classé, 2009

Score
97
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2047
  • RRP £648
1er cru classé
  • Concentrated
  • Generous
  • Piercing fruit
Learn More

Château Pape Clément, Cru classé, 2009

Score
97
100
Pessac-Léognan AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2041
  • RRP £160
Cru classé
  • Chocolatey
  • Floral
  • Rich
Learn More

Château Beychevelle, 4ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2033
  • RRP £92
4ème cru classé
  • Bilberry
  • Seductive
  • Succulent
Learn More

Château Branaire-Ducru, 4ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2034
  • RRP £75
4ème cru classé
  • Precise
  • Pure
  • Racy
Learn More

Château Brane-Cantenac, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Margaux AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2044
  • RRP £64.5
2ème cru classé
  • Graceful
  • Scented
  • Structured
Learn More

Château La Fleur-Pétrus, 2009

Score
96
100
Pomerol AOP
  • From 2023
  • To 2037
  • RRP £195
Château La Fleur-Pétrus
  • Dark fruit
  • Floral
  • Muscular
Learn More

Château Latour, Les Forts de Latour, 2009

Score
96
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2036
  • RRP £174
Les Forts de Latour
  • Balanced
  • Bright
  • Focussed
Learn More

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2041
  • RRP £68
5ème cru classé
  • Complex
  • Textured
  • Vibrant
Learn More

Château Gruaud Larose, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2036
  • RRP £64
2ème cru classé
  • Eucalyptus
  • Tannic
  • Textured
Learn More

Château Léoville Barton, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2040
  • RRP £110
2ème cru classé
  • Floral
  • Graceful
  • Textured
Learn More

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
96
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2036
  • RRP £151
2ème cru classé
  • Concentrated
  • Confident
  • Velvety
Learn More

Château La Conseillante, 2009

Score
95
100
Pomerol AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2035
  • RRP £165
Château La Conseillante
  • Complex
  • Fleshy
  • Floral
Learn More

Château Figeac, 1er grand cru classé, 2009

Score
95
100
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2037
  • RRP £139
1er grand cru classé
  • Fresh
  • Heady
  • Savoury
Learn More

Château Le Gay, 2009

Score
95
100
Pomerol AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2034
  • RRP £109
Château Le Gay
  • Blue-black fruit
  • Gentle
  • Succulent
Learn More

Château Hosanna, 2009

Score
95
100
Pomerol AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2036
  • RRP £183
Château Hosanna
  • Opulent
  • Piercing fruit
  • Tobacco
Learn More

Château La Lagune, 3ème cru classé, 2009

Score
95
100
Haut-Médoc AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2031
  • RRP £55
3ème cru classé
  • Balanced
  • Classy
  • Racy
Learn More

Château Langoa Barton, 3ème cru classé, 2009

Score
95
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2033
  • RRP £49.99
3ème cru classé
  • Concentrated
  • Dark fruit
  • Sumptuous
Learn More

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
95
100
Pauillac AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2034
  • RRP £128
2ème cru classé
  • Floral
  • Fruit-forward
  • Sweet
Learn More

Château Pavie, 1er grand cru classé B, 2009

Score
94
100
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2042
  • RRP £340
1er grand cru classé B
  • Complex
  • Powerful
  • Structured
Learn More

Château Canon, 1er grand cru classé B, 2009

Score
94
100
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2034
  • RRP £132
1er grand cru classé B
  • Floral
  • Perfumed
  • Ripe
Learn More

Château Cos d’Estournel, 2ème cru classé, 2009

Score
94
100
Saint-Estephe AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2040
  • RRP £248.58
2ème cru classé
  • Deep
  • Powerful
  • Ultra-ripe
Learn More

Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, 2009

Score
94
100
Margaux AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2029
  • RRP £165
Pavillon Rouge
  • Coffee bean
  • Polished
  • Structured
Learn More

Château Gloria, Cru Bourgeois, 2009

Score
93
100
Saint-Julien AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2029
  • RRP £53.05
Cru Bourgeois
  • Fresh
  • Poised
  • Vivacious
Learn More

Château Malartic-Lagravière, Cru classé, 2009

Score
93
100
Pessac-Léognan AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2029
  • RRP £46.95
Cru classé
  • Balanced
  • Moreish
  • Opulent
Learn More

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