Purchased by telecoms giants Martin and Olivier Bouygues in 2006, their reported €55 million renovations were not completed until 2013. But the former Mouton-Rothschild winemaker, Hervé Berland, did not need the new facilities to make a very fine Montrose in 2009. Supremely poised, with great breed, and that classic Montrose hint of vanillin suavity on the nose. In the mouth, a beautifully integrated, powerful fruit core, and serious tannic grip. One to lay down for longer still, but it’s all there, and it will relent eventually!