Sassicaia 1977-2019

From its early days as a wine made for friends and family, to spearheading the Super-Tuscan movement, Sassicaia has achieved legendary status. Susan Hulme MW tells its story and tastes back through 12 vintages over five decades

Words by Susan Hulme MW

Sassicaia wine bottle on table

The story of Sassicaia starts with Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. When the Marchese married Clarice della Gherardesca in 1930, the young couple inherited the sprawling Tenuta San Guido estate in Bolgheri and, united in their passion for thoroughbred racehorses, developed the Razza Dormello Olgiata stable. Over the years they produced some world-class horses, spearheaded by one of the finest of all time, Ribot, who remained undefeated in his career, twice winning the Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe in the mid-1950s. 

The Marchese also had an appreciation for fine Bordeaux. He remembered tasting claret from barriques at his grandfather’s house at the beginning of the First World War. On encountering these characteristics again in a 1924 Margaux, he made it his mission to create a wine in its image. 

Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta
Marchese Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, head of the family behind Sassicaia, whose father Mario was the originator of the brand

In 1944 he planted Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta San Guido in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri, a terraced, south-east facing vineyard, 380 metres above sea level and surrounded by forests. The Marchese wanted the vineyard high up and away from the effects of the sea air. The wine takes its name (Sassicaia means stoney place) from a second vineyard planted in 1981 with vines from the original vineyard.

Originally the wine was intended only for friends and family and was not commercially available.  However, in 1971, after years of experimentation, the Marchese was encouraged by the positive response of the famous wine-critic, Luigi Veronelli. With the help of his nephew Piero Antinori, he chose to market and distribute his new wine. Marchese Nicolò, his youngest son, was keen also to draft in the Antinori family’s consultant oenologist, Giacomo Tachis, to turn the Marchese’s more artisan wine into something to rival the best of Bordeaux. Tachis brought the expertise he had acquired from his time in Bordeaux with Emile Peynaud to the 1968 vintage of Sassicaia, a Cabernet Sauvignon blend with up to 20% Cabernet Franc, which was launched on the market in 1971. 

 

sassicaia bottle label close-up
In 1992, Robert Parker awarded the 1985 Sassicaia vintage 100 points. It was the first Italian wine to achieve a perfect score

It was not long before Sassicaia made its presence felt in the world of fine wines. In 1978 the wine took first place in a Decanter blind tasting of ‘Great Clarets’, outshining 33 other famous names from 11 different countries. In 1992 Robert Parker, the USA’s most important wine critic at that time, gave the 1985 vintage 100 points, the first time an Italian wine had ever been awarded that score. Sassicaia and a handful of other wines quickly became known as ‘Super-Tuscan’, a term originally coined by the Italian wine specialist and writer Nick Belfrage MW. Launched as a humble vino da tavola, it was granted its own DOC, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, in 2013, the only wine in Italy to have such a distinction. 

Sassicaia has always been a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc from the estate at Tenuta San Guido

Nowadays the day-to-day management is carried out by a team of professional managers, adroitly overseen by Marchese Nicolò and his family. The winemaking responsibilities were passed into the careful hands of Carlo Paoli, director general in charge of production, and his team in 2009. Having had the privilege of tasting nearly 20 vintages of Sassicaia at Tenuta San Guido recently, thanks to its UK agent Armit Wines, the wine is, if anything, becoming even finer. Sassicaia retains its strong identity, combining velvety concentration with a thrilling acidity that brings vibrant freshness, while the tannins are becoming more gossamer-like in weight and texture. 

Sassicaia 1977-2019

Producer Name Vintage Region Subregion
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2019
Tuscany
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2019 Tuscany N/A
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2016
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2016 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2015
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2015 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2012
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2012 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2011
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2011 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2010
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2010 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2009
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2009 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 2006
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2006 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 1998
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1998 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 1988
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1988 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 1985
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1985 Tuscany Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 1977
Tuscany , Bolgheri
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1977 Tuscany Bolgheri