Perriet-Jouët’s extensive vineyard holdings in the Côte des Blancs form the heart and soul of Belle Epoque. The blend consists of some 50% of Chardonnay from Cramant, Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Vertus, but it is Cramant’s strong presence that carries the wine. The village’s complex, fragrant floral notes and mineral finesse are the hallmarks of Belle Epoque from vintage to vintage. Pinot Noir from the cool, north-facing vineyards of Mailly, Verzy and Verzenay, meanwhile, lend a certain elegance alongside the more powerful touches of Aÿ Pinot.

Consistency of style is another defining factor, helped by the continuum of winemakers crafting it. The recently retired Hervé Deschamps was in charge from 1993 until 2020, having developed his expertise under the wing of Belle Epoque’s creator Bavaret. It was Deschamps who decided to add a touch of Meunier to the cuvée for further fruity appeal; he was also the one to create the first Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs in 1993 – his very first vintage as chef de cave.

Only seven vintages of Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs have been made since 1993. The wine always originates from the same Cramant vineyards acquired by Charles Perrier himself, and its Chardonnay can often surprise in its power and creaminess. Belle Epoque Rosé is crafted on the same base as the white Belle Epoque, with a splash of Pinot Noir employed to give it its colour and character. It was in 1976 that the emblematic anemone was enamelled on to clear glass for the very first vintage of Belle Epoque Rosé. Today, Japanese consumers in particular are entranced by the wine, and Perrier-Jouët crafts special Edition Première and Edition Automne versions specifically for that market. The clear glass may visually contribute to the wine’s appeal, but it leaves the wine vulnerable to destruction by light. Care must therefore be taken when buying and serving the Rosé and Blanc de Blancs bottled in clear glass.

A smooth handover is one of the key tasks of a cellar master, and Deschamps found himself a successor of great credentials. After a long career at Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck, Séverine Frerson worked with Deschamps for two years before he handed her the role in 2020. Known for her superlative palate, Frerson is already making her mark, not least in the special dosage liquor she introduced in the 2012 vintage, for ‘the highest potential of expression’. Her sensitivity and obsession for precision alongside the emphasis on vineyard work and sustainability are key to Belle Epoque scaling even greater heights in the future.

Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of taking part in an extraordinary vertical tasting put together by the passionate Swedish collector Marina Olsson, who treated members of her Gomseglet Champagne Connoisseurs club to 25 vintages of Belle Epoque. I am sharing here the notes of the bottles that I considered to be in absolutely pristine condition. Her sourcing was as impeccable as ever, but as always with mature bottles, storage conditions caused a few disappointments, so I have complemented the line-up with notes from recent tastings at the maison, as marked.