Features

2016 Bordeaux: Ten years on

John Stimpfig revisits a Bordeaux vintage that was welcomed as one of the greatest ever by producers and critics alike. A decade later, do the wines live up to the hype?

Words by John Stimpfig

Bordeaux 2016 vintage lead image

The weather in Bordeaux for the first six months of 2016 could hardly have been worse, as rainfall saturated the region’s vineyards. At the beginning of May, winemakers and owners were as downcast as the leaden skies. But just as they feared the worst, the rain stopped for a week – right on cue – to effect a perfect flowering.

This good fortune was the beginning of an almost perfect summer. The result is a vintage that is an absolute delight to taste today, just as it was back en primeur in 2017. Not only have the wines lived up to their prodigious early promise, they also confirm my view that this is the greatest Bordeaux vintage I have tasted, surpassing any other in my lifetime. There are truly great and very good wines at varying price points. Any serious collector or aficionado would want the 2016s in their cellars and on their dining tables.

The wines confirm my view that this is the greatest Bordeaux vintage I have tasted

Flowering was followed by warm, dry conditions that persisted through the summer months up to and into October. There were sustained periods of drought but temperatures never climbed high enough to stress the vines, except perhaps for some on sandy soils. Moreover, with cool nights and some well-timed September rain to refresh the parched vines, ripening progressed to perfection. The Bordelais couldn’t believe their good fortune or the quality of fruit at harvest.

The grapes, picked in ideal conditions, were packed with spectacular levels of acidity and tannin, as well as abundantly appealing fruit. 2016 even delivered the added bonus of a bumper crop with production up 7%. Figeac’s Frédéric Faye described the vintage as ‘a journey from hell to paradise. At Pichon Comtesse, Nicolas Glumineau simply proclaimed it, ‘a miracle’.

With such an enticing prospect in store, global wine merchants and press were eager to taste the wines en primeur. Some estates received 6,500 visitors – 2,000 more than usual – and the reaction was unanimous; 2016 was hailed a stellar red wine vintage on both banks, possibly the best ever. Numerous profoundly great and exciting wines had been made, with very few duds. Not only that, quality was consistently high from top to bottom and across the Gironde. The wines offered structure, power, freshness, elegance, well-defined fruit, lots of charm and plenty of ageing potential. Several estates confidently pronounced 2016 as their greatest vintage to date.

2016 yielded one of the best ever iterations of Cos d'Estournel

The northern Médoc was especially good thanks to the sublime quality of the late-ripening Cabernet and many estates boasted high percentages in their Grand Vins. Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac and Margaux all delivered in spades. So too did the leading names in Pessac-Léognan.

On the Merlot-dominated Right Bank, the top terroirs outperformed once more. Here, cooler clay soils helped mitigate the drought and there are a host of truly great Pomerols to admire and enjoy. The Saint-Émilion limestone plateau also came up trumps with similar results. Not surprisingly, the Right Bank wines are now more accessible to open and drink, while wines from the very best Left Bank estates undoubtedly require more time in bottle.

Almost invariably, these highly sophisticated wines are supremely balanced. There is little over-ripeness and almost no greenness. Extraction levels have been perfectly judged. Many Left Bank wines are around or a notch above 13%, while the Right Bank wines show a little more weight and softness, together with a touch more alcohol. In terms of overall style, 2016 is arguably an exquisite blend of the best qualities of 2009 and 2010. As such, it eclipses both of these benchmark vintages.

2016 is arguably an exquisite blend of the best qualities of 2009 and 2010

Since their release, prices for wines from many of the top 25 estates have fluctuated significantly. They currently stand just a couple of percentage points above their en primeur price, says Geraint Carter of Bordeaux Index. Carter asserts that the wines represent fair value for the quality on offer, especially when compared to other top vintages, and there is plenty of stock in the market.

Ten years on looks like a good time to buy for two additional reasons. Firstly, market prices seem to be on an upward trajectory and secondly, many of the wines are now entering their drinking windows and will be at or approaching their peak over the next few years.

Ten top wines from the 2016 Bordeaux vintage

Producer Name Vintage Region Subregion
Château Cos d’Estournel, 2ème Cru Classé Saint-Estèphe 2016
Bordeaux , Saint-Estephe AOP
Château Cos d’Estournel 2ème Cru Classé Saint-Estèphe 2016 Bordeaux Saint-Estephe AOP
Château Mouton-Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé Pauillac 2016
Bordeaux , Pauillac AOP
Château Mouton-Rothschild 1er Cru Classé Pauillac 2016 Bordeaux Pauillac AOP
Château Pichon-Comtesse, 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac 2016
Bordeaux , Pauillac AOP
Château Pichon-Comtesse 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac 2016 Bordeaux Pauillac AOP
Château La Conseillante, Pomerol 2016
Bordeaux , Pomerol AOP
Château La Conseillante Pomerol 2016 Bordeaux Pomerol AOP
Château Léoville-Barton, 2ème Cru Classé St Julien 2016
Bordeaux , Saint-Julien AOP
Château Léoville-Barton 2ème Cru Classé St Julien 2016 Bordeaux Saint-Julien AOP
Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé B Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016
Bordeaux , Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
Château Valandraud Premier Grand Cru Classé B Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016 Bordeaux Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOP
Domaine de Chevalier, Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan 2016
Bordeaux , Pessac-Léognan AOP
Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan 2016 Bordeaux Pessac-Léognan AOP
Château Calon Ségur 2016
Bordeaux , Saint-Estephe AOP
Château Calon Ségur Château Calon Ségur 2016 Bordeaux Saint-Estephe AOP
Château Dufort-Vivens, 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux 2016
Bordeaux , Margaux AOP
Château Dufort-Vivens 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux 2016 Bordeaux Margaux AOP
Château Potensac, Médoc 2016
Bordeaux , Médoc AOP
Château Potensac Médoc 2016 Bordeaux Médoc AOP