In April 2006, it seemed that every vintner and winemaker in Bordeaux was cock-a-hoop when presenting their newly minted clarets at the en primeur tastings. Take, for instance, Frédéric Engerer at Château Latour, who thought his 2005 was potentially one of the great Latours of all time, alongside the likes of the ‘45, ‘59 and ‘61. ‘I think we should retire’, he told Jancis Robinson, only half-joking. ‘We can’t do better than this.’
The growing season began with a wet spring following good winter rainfall. Thereafter, it was plain sailing all the way, with warm, dry weather throughout the summer and well into the autumn. The rainfall that occasionally punctuated the drought was minimal, just the right amount and timed to perfection. Cool nights locked in acidity and ideal picking conditions meant that the Bordelais were able to harvest small, thick-skinned and supremely healthy grapes at the optimum moment. The best Merlots were generally picked early for freshness while the Cabernets were picked late.
Once safely gathered in and vinified, it was confirmed that the ‘05 reds possessed an abundance of colour, sugar, fruit, tannic structure, phenolic ripeness and bright acidity – a rare and prized combination. Better still, all these various components were perfectly balanced with nothing in excess, including alcohol levels. An additional bonus was that quality was exceptional on both banks. Truly, an annus mirabilis.
Across the board, the critics immediately loved the vintage and hyped it accordingly. Though surprisingly miserly with 100-point scores, the then all-powerful Robert Parker wrote in The Wine Advocate that he had ‘never tasted so many extraordinarily rich, concentrated, massive wines, so high in tannin and extract, yet with such precision, definition and freshness.’ Jancis Robinson agreed: ‘there are more very good to great wines than I can remember in any other vintage,’ she asserted. It was also clear that, given their quality and potential, the ‘05 futures would be both expensive and highly sought after by collectors around the world.
The wines duly came out at prices between 30% and 50% higher than the previous record-breaking vintage (2003), which did not deter buyers. With a buoyant market and strong international interest, the wines quickly sold out. Berry Bros & Rudd traded £60m worth of stock that year – three times more than the 2004s.
This vintage remains of sublime quality that will continue to provide optimal drinking now and for decades to come
Initially, the leading wines surged in value on the secondary market. In fact, just two years later in 2008, Lafite and Latour were selling at over £8,000 a case, more than double their initial release price. However, these dramatic gains were short-lived as the dramatic market correction of 2011 brought prices tumbling back to earth.
In 2013, prices began to recover and reached their most recent high point in June 2022, partly boosted by the effects of Covid lockdowns on the fine-wine market. However, in the last three years, weakening economies, higher interest rates and excess stocks of young red Bordeaux vintages have combined to drag down prices of the ‘05s by 15% to their current levels, according to Martyn Rolph, Berry Bros & Rudd’s senior buyer.
Consequently, you can now buy ‘05 Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Haut-Brion for between £6,000 and £6,300 per case, with Mouton looking even more attractive at £4,800 a dozen. ‘Given their current maturity and quality, that makes these and other top 2005 clarets look very good value – especially when compared to a vintage like 2000,’ adds Rolph. (The Lafite 2000 and Margaux 2000 are more than 50% higher than their ‘05 siblings. In marked contrast, the Mouton 2000, at £13,300, is nearly three times the price of the ‘05.)
As a result, Berry Bros recently put together a special offer of top 2005 Bordeaux clarets, which I tasted at the merchant’s St James Street cellars at the beginning of October. As my notes attest, this vintage remains of sublime quality that will continue to provide optimal drinking now and for decades to come.
The best performing wines from the tasting are good for another two decades at least
Some wines have taken their time to open up but almost all have now entered their drinking windows. The majority have retained their primary blue black fruit spectrums whilst also beginning to develop bottle age complexity and savoury tertiary notes. Most are attractively mid-weight in structure and are supremely appetising; impeccably balanced and fresh with tannins that have softened after nearly two decades in bottle.
Without question, this is a great vintage that has entered its pomp and prime. Moreover, there is absolutely no rush to drink these clarets any time soon. The best performing wines from the tasting are good for another two decades at least, whilst a few will thrive and prosper for another four or even five. So, if you are looking to stock up on these gorgeously complex and pleasurable 2005s, there may never be a better time to do it.
Top wines from the 2005 Bordeaux vintage
| Producer | Name | Vintage | Region | Subregion | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Château Haut-Brion, 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan 2005
Bordeaux
, Graves
|
Château Haut-Brion | 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan | 2005 | Bordeaux | Graves | |
|
Château Latour, 1er Cru Classé Pauillac 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Latour | 1er Cru Classé Pauillac | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé Margaux 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Margaux | 1er Cru Classé Margaux | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru St-Émilion 2005
Bordeaux
, St Emilion & Pomerol
|
Château Cheval Blanc | 1er Grand Cru St-Émilion | 2005 | Bordeaux | St Emilion & Pomerol | |
|
Château Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé Pauillac 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Lafite Rothschild | 1er Cru Classé Pauillac | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Leoville-Las Cases, 2éme Cru Classé St Julien 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Leoville-Las Cases | 2éme Cru Classé St Julien | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Lynch Bages, 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Lynch Bages | 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé Pauillac 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Mouton Rothschild | 1er Cru Classé Pauillac | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Palmer, 3ème Cru Classé Margaux 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Palmer | 3ème Cru Classé Margaux | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Figeac, 1er Grand Cru Classé B St-Émilion 2005
Bordeaux
, St Emilion & Pomerol
|
Château Figeac | 1er Grand Cru Classé B St-Émilion | 2005 | Bordeaux | St Emilion & Pomerol | |
|
Château La Conseillante, Pomerol 2005
Bordeaux
, St Emilion & Pomerol
|
Château La Conseillante | Pomerol | 2005 | Bordeaux | St Emilion & Pomerol | |
|
Château Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé St-Estèphe 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Montrose | 2ème Cru Classé St-Estèphe | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Pichon Baron, 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Pichon Baron | 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc | |
|
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac 2005
Bordeaux
, Médoc & Haut Médoc
|
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste | 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac | 2005 | Bordeaux | Médoc & Haut Médoc |