Recognised as the birthplace of wine, Georgia has also represented a voyage of discovery for most drinkers in recent years, as its distinctive cuvées have won a legion of fans in search of something new and different. Now, the country’s most successful producers are seeking to conquer the premium end of the market by demonstrating the incredible complexity of Georgian grape varieties.
At a challenging time for the wine industry, with sales dipping across the board, Georgia has bucked the trend: exports increased 72% last year. Of more than half a million bottles shipped, a third of the total was from just one producer: Tbilvino. Established in 1962 and revitalised as a family business in 1999, led by brothers George and Zurab Margvelashvili, Tbilvino exports award-winning wines to more than 30 countries from a state-of-the-art winery in Kakheti, the historic heart of Georgian viticulture.
Georgia has the depth to support a serious premium offering
Tbilvino’s success stems from its careful melding of centuries-old craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques and a focus on sustainability. The producer is a champion of the qvevri, clay pots that are buried in the ground as part of an ancient practice that involves leaving the wine they contain to ferment on the grape skins. The technique is notoriously challenging, relying on years of expertise to create wines combining aromatic complexity with structure and texture without introducing external flavour components such as oak or excess oxidation.
Amphora winemaking has become fashionable elsewhere in the world but Georgia remains the technique’s spiritual home, with Tbilvino determined to show that the qvevri can produce wines to rival the complexity of those at the upper echelons of the market. ‘With over 500 native grape varieties and 8,000 years of uninterrupted winemaking tradition’, says George Margvelashvili, executive director at Tbilvino, ‘Georgia has the depth to support a serious premium offering.’
To showcase the estate’s combination of generational knowledge and winemaking skill, Tbilvino has launched two new premium wines: Saperavi Twin Vineyards 2022, made from ‘the King of Georgian grapes’, and Qvevris Kisi 2022. The former a red grape and the latter amber (Georgian’s do not use the term ‘orange wine’), these two wines are targeted at independent merchants and hospitality venues, as well as drinkers searching for distinct wines with heritage. ‘The UK’s premium on-trade sector is increasingly open to distinctive stories and emerging regions, making it the right moment to introduce Georgian wine at a higher level,’ says Margvelashvili. Currently available at Berkmann Wine Cellars, Tbilvino’s flagship collection is also available at several bar and restaurants across London.
Bold, dark-fruited and full-bodied, Saperavi offers bountiful berry fruits and peppery spice, supported by refined tannins. A food-friendly grape, it pairs well with grilled meats, stews, and aged cheeses. Tbilvino is convinced that Saperavi has the potential to emerge as a global benchmark, replicating the success of varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Malbec.
An aromatic and intriguing white grape, Kisi is considered perfectly suited to qvevri-fermented styles, with its signature stone-fruit character enhanced by a herbal complexity and layered texture. When made as an amber wine, with its photogenic hue, the variety has found fame in fashionable wine bars and is increasingly popular with adventurous drinkers.
While Tbilvino utilises age-old qvevri winemaking techniques, it also has its finger on the pulse of the latest vinous technology, with precision vineyard monitoring, a sophisticated hail protection system and modern production facilities focused on sanitary and temperature control measures to safeguard quality and eradicate any potential hygiene issues that could arise from the use of amphorae. Tbilvino has also invested heavily in sustainable practices, including the use of lightweight bottles and recyclable packaging.
The new premium wines are a celebration of Georgia’s unique winemaking culture
Beyond its rich treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties and ancient techniques, Georgia also offers the world a distinctive style of dining that encapsulates its approach to generous hospitality: the supra. A traditional feast for friends and family featuring storytelling and seemingly endless toasts, led by the Tamada (toastmaster), the banquet has Georgia’s wine at its heart – and it’s easy to see how Tbilvino’s versatile wines are products of this culture.
The food-friendly credentials of the two new cuvées are particularly pertinent given Tbilvino’s recent research indicates that members of Gen Z host an average of five dinner parties a year, which is almost double that of millennials. It appears to be part of a move towards more informal eating generally: only 4% of Gen Z prefer traditional multi-course dinners, whereas 29% favour buffet-style gatherings.
‘These new premium wines embody our company’s vision and dedication to crafting exceptional cuvées,’ says Margvelashvili. ‘They are a celebration of Georgia’s unique winemaking culture, where heritage meets innovation and every bottle tells a story.’
