Reports 6 March 2019

La Tablée New York: a celebration of French wine and food

Jordan Mackay attends the inaugural La Tablée, the recent high-end celebration of regional French wine and food culture from sommelier and importer Daniel Johnnes

Words by Jordan Mackay

Photography by Jen Del Castillo

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Wine lovers braving New York’s icy streets during the “polar vortex” of late January were rewarded with a superb showing of wines and producers from the Rhone Valley.

The event in question was La Tablée New York, the recent high-end celebration of regional French wine and food culture from renowned sommelier and importer Daniel Johnnes.

Johnnes specialises in multi-day events inspired by long-established old world festivals. The best-known of these is La Paulée, a week-long celebration of Burgundy. Then there is La Fête du Champagne, and La Tablée.

Wine tasting booklet at La Tablée New York
Corks at La Tablée New York
Photos courtesy of La Tablée

The inaugural Tablée (a term used in Côte Rôtieto refer to the communal meal that celebrates the end of harvest) opened with a series of extremely rare tastings.

The first, a dinner for twelve, focused on the wines of cult Côte Rôtie producer Gentaz-Dervieux. Marius Gentaz’s last vintage was 1993, but here the lucky dozen were treated to ultra-rare bottles of 13 vintages, spanning 1975 to 1992.

The following day featured a lunch centered on Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Domaine Saint-Préfert, as well as three “Réserve des Celestins” bottlings (2010, 2005, and 2000) of the late legend Henri Bonneau.

Heading into the weekend were discussion seminars on Côte Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape with top producers, as well as a huge Saturday afternoon tasting of multiple appellations from the Northern and Southern Rhone, with over 25 producers on hand to pour.

Dining table at La Tablée New York
Dining table at La Tablée New York
La Tablée New York

That evening, as the cold spell finally started to break, the grand Tablée dinner was held at a beautiful old red-brick building in Brooklyn. Some 200 people enjoyed old vintages brought by the producers and, following tradition, unique bottles that they brought themselves to share. This meant that delicious old wines from some of the finest producers who didn’t attend this year— Chave, Allemand and Rayas, to name a few— ended up being present after all.

Toward the end of the dinner, after a few days of hard living in New York, Stéphane Ogier of Côte Rôtie’s Domaine Stéphane Ogier told me, “We don’t have anything like this in France, bringing so many Rhone producers together. It feels like something that could only happen in New York.”

Wines from La Tablée

Maison Clusel-Roch, Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places, 2016

Score
94
100
Côte Rôtie AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2040
  • RRP £66
Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places
  • Complex
  • Pithy
  • Powerful
Learn More

Yves Cuilleron, Condrieu Chaillets, 2016

Score
91
100
Condrieu AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2025
  • RRP £50
Condrieu Chaillets
  • Floral
  • Honeyed
  • Round
Learn More

Stéphane Ogier, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes “LAme Sœur” Syrah de Seyssuel, 2016

Score
90
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2023
  • RRP N/A in UK
IGP Collines Rhodaniennes “LAme Sœur” Syrah de Seyssuel
  • Accessible
  • Crunchy
  • Savoury
Learn More

Yves Gangloff, Côte-Rôtie La Sereine Noire, 2016

Score
92
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2035
  • RRP £123.33
Côte-Rôtie La Sereine Noire
  • Brooding
  • Dark
  • Youthful
Learn More

René Rostaing, Côte-Rôtie Ampodium, 2016

Score
92
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2030
  • RRP £40.93
Côte-Rôtie Ampodium
  • Floral
  • Generous
  • Long
Learn More

Jean-Michel Gerin, Côte-Rôtie La Viallière, 2016

Score
94
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2035
  • RRP £46.4
Côte-Rôtie La Viallière
  • Brooding
  • Powerful
  • Savoury
Learn More

Domaine Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, 2017

Score
92
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2026
  • RRP £22.04
Crozes-Hermitage Blanc
  • Floral
  • Graceful
  • Juicy
Learn More

Domaine Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, 2016

Score
92
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2028
  • RRP £24.93
Crozes-Hermitage Rouge
  • Balanced
  • Classic
  • Suave
Learn More

E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde, 2015

Score
91
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2022
  • To 2040
  • RRP £39.17
Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde
  • Complex
  • Floral
  • Generous
Learn More

Paul Jaboulet Ainé, Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, 2016

Score
92
100
Northern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2028
  • RRP £24.83
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert
  • Earthy
  • Savoury
  • Succulent
Learn More

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, 2016

Score
98
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2040
  • RRP £100
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes
  • Complex
  • Joyful
  • Seductive
Learn More

Domaine Saint Préfert, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2016

Score
93
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2030
  • RRP £24
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  • Ageable
  • Powerful
  • Structured
Learn More

Domaine de Beaurenard, Rasteau Les Argiles Bleues, 2016

Score
89
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2028
  • RRP £19
Rasteau Les Argiles Bleues
  • Approachable
  • Crisp
  • Savoury
Learn More

Domaine de la Janasse, Côte du Rhône Village Terre d’Argile, 2016

Score
91
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2025
  • RRP £16.62
Côte du Rhône Village Terre d’Argile
  • Approachable
  • Balanced
  • Fruity
Learn More

Domaine du Pegau, Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Maclura, 2016

Score
95
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2025
  • RRP £13
Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Maclura
  • Fruity
  • Mineral
  • Succulent
Learn More

Domaine du Pegau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée A Tempo, 2016

Score
94
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2030
  • RRP £151
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée A Tempo
  • Bracing
  • Bright
  • Refreshing
Learn More

Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas, 2016

Score
92
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2030
  • RRP £20.79
Gigondas
  • Classic
  • Generous
  • Succulent
Learn More

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2016

Score
95
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2035
  • RRP £52.5
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  • Complex
  • Fresh
  • Well-crafted
Learn More

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Gigondas Pallières Les Racines Rouge, 2016

Score
93
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2020
  • To 2030
  • RRP £23.92
Gigondas Pallières Les Racines Rouge
  • Approachable
  • Compelling
  • Floral
Learn More

Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Lirac Rouge, 2016

Score
90
100
Southern Rhône
  • From 2019
  • To 2025
  • RRP £12
Lirac Rouge
  • Approachable
  • Long
  • Ripe
Learn More

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