Encircled by steep, verdant slopes, with the turbulent Cook Strait lapping at its shores, Wellington’s wild and windy weather is the stuff of legend but this spectacular city also deserves to be famous for something else: the best wine bars in Wellington are some of the finest you’ll find in the Southern Hemisphere. There’s a well-worn Kiwi adage that ‘you can’t beat Wellington on a good day’ and there’s plenty of truth to it because New Zealand’s compact capital has a buzz that’s impossible to ignore – and its wine bars play their part.
Known by locals as ‘Welly’, the city’s 200,000 residents are perfectly positioned between two of the most exciting wine regions in New Zealand: Wairarapa, one of the smallest, encompassing the bucolic town of Martinborough and, across the chilly, choppy channel that separates North and South Island, Marlborough, by far the biggest, celebrated for the signature style of Sauvignon Blanc that has become the country’s calling card.
Wellington’s 200,000 residents are perfectly positioned between two of the most exciting wine regions in New Zealand
Wellington is an administrative rather than commercial centre but thankfully it’s no Canberra (Australia’s somewhat dull, purpose-built capital) because the city also represents the country’s cultural heart. There’s the national museum, Te Papa Tongarewa, the City Gallery, specialising in contemporary art and, for wildlife, Zealandia, an impressive urban nature reserve built around a redundant reservoir that celebrates New Zealand’s unique biodiversity.
Though Auckland is a serious rival for fine dining, these days, Wellington jealously guards its historic reputation as the nation’s culinary capital. The Covid pandemic took its toll but has resulted in a trend towards affordable, casual places to eat and, most especially, smaller scale bars that showcase bottles produced all over the country, making it easy to savour the flavours of New Zealand without needing to travel out of town or even make a booking. Wellington’s international airport is a 15-minute taxi ride from the centre, making the city a popular mini-break for domestic tourists as well as Australian visitors, while its status as a popular conference destination ensures there are plenty of hotel rooms.
Over a bottle of Chardonnay at relative newcomer to the bar scene, Plonk, Natalie Walsh, a Wellington native and global head of marketing and sales for Central Otago’s Te Kano, tells me why she believes ‘Welly’ is a shoo-in for New Zealand’s top city: ‘This place has shaped me; it’s a metropolis that’s big enough to provide plenty of variety, while nothing is too far away. The restaurants and bars are vibrant, the art and culture scene is world class, it’s on the doorstep of two great wine regions, and the harbour and coastline are beautiful yet rugged.’
If you’re heading to Wellington to assess the city for yourself, read on for five of the best wine bars to visit along the way.
Five of the best wine bars to visit in Wellington
Noble Rot
Te Aro
The city’s most celebrated wine bar, Noble Rot (of no relation to the three restaurants in London) is also a dining destination acclaimed for the seasonal sourcing of its small plates and cheese/charcuterie boards. The incredible wine list remains the real star, however, offering a comprehensive collection of domestic wines, from Northland Chardonnay to Central Otago Pinot Noir, many available by the glass, complemented by a carefully curated selection of imported bottles. There’s a Manhattan vibe to the chic surroundings, while the knowledge and passion of those pouring the wine is palpable, so it’s best to lap up the atmosphere and be guided by them. There’s also an extensive cocktail list and an impressive selection of spirits, from single malt to aged Armagnac. The venue is relatively small and hugely popular, so it’s best to book at the weekend.
View this post on Instagram
Plonk
Wellington Central
In an unprepossessing corner unit of Wellington’s CBD, across a busy road from the waterfront, this relatively new wine bar has evolved from a fine-dining establishment that fell victim to the pandemic. Described as a ‘bistrotheque’, the lighting is louche, there’s a DJ booth and regular live music, but there’s also a tempting menu (try the Coq-au-Vin on a stick) while the wine list is comprehensive and cerebral, so let the friendly sommelier Hunter make a recommendation, either by the bottle or glass. Locals love the international nature of the wine list but visitors should eschew what they can enjoy at home and revel in the best that New Zealand has to offer.
View this post on Instagram
Puffin
Te Aro
Occupying the ground floor of one of the city’s coolest hotels, The Intrepid, just off the bustle of Ghuznee Street, this funky establishment is a destination in its own right. Puffin specialises in natural, organic and low intervention wines, from which there are plenty to choose, with by-the-glass specials listed on the wall. There’s also a small selection of light bites and salty, wine-friendly snacks. Open all evening, it’s the perfect place for loitering late at night on a green velvet banquette, wine or cocktail in hand, watched over by a taxidermied puffin.
View this post on Instagram
Rosella
Mount Victoria
This cosy neighbourhood restaurant and wine bar in Mount Victoria offers small plates inspired by journeys to the Mediterranean and Middle East, specialising in fresh local fish dishes, while the extensive wine list brings things closer to home. Enjoy the laid-back atmosphere across its two floors, with charming service from the knowledgeable, enthusiastic team who pride themselves on an enticing by-the-glass selection, not to mention an exciting cocktail offer.
View this post on Instagram
Ascot
Te Aro
Half the fun is trying to find this place, hidden behind an anonymous door, a couple of flights up an industrial staircase where Cuba meets Ghuznee Street. It’s worth the effort because there’s a chilled, friendly vibe, with a blackboard displaying a small but thoughtfully curated list of cocktails, as well as organic and natural wines by the glass, while pairing options are largely limited to delicious hot dogs, either free-range pork or vegan carrot, seductively smothered in sauce.
