White peaks: Argentinian Chardonnay climbs new heights

‘When we speak about Argentina we get excited by Malbec and rightly so, but there are some excellent whites and Chardonnay is leading the way in my opinion, especially when we explore wines from cooler sites,’ says Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, a member of the IWSC’s senior judging committee. ‘I am particularly excited about Gualtallary as its altitude and cooler conditions enable producers to make world class wines that are reminiscent of good Burgundies.’

That altitude effect – for every 100m of elevation, there is a commensurate drop of 1°C in temperature – has seen Argentinian producers experiment with ever higher vineyards in the foothills of the Andes, pushing at the boundaries of viticulture, with Chardonnay proving to be the perfect bedfellow for Malbec. Gualtallary, where the vines appear to march toward the sky at a height of up to 1,600m, finds itself the focus for the variety in Argentina.

‘The first really high-altitude plantations in the Uco Valley were Chardonnay, before even Malbec,’ says Amanda Barnes, author of the South America Wine Guide. ‘Chandon was one of the pioneers, originally hunting higher acidity for sparkling wines, but it’s clear that high altitude gives you great acidity for still wines too. The soils are also more interesting and, in combination with the cooler climate, you get a more floral, elegant expression on the rocky poor soils at high altitude over the riper fruit style found on heavier soils at lower altitude. That’s why I think Chardonnay – the ultimate terroir expressor – has found a natural home at high altitude in Mendoza’s Uco Valley.’

After overseeing the assessment of more than 400 wines for the IWSC in Mendoza, Vianna Junior cautions that favourable comparisons with Burgundy should not be allowed to distract from the distinctive terroir-driven character of Argentinian Chardonnay: ‘I see many producers using Burgundy as the benchmark and this is understandable given where the country is in terms of development in the wine scene, specifically for white wines. Going forward I would like to see producers demonstrating more confidence in their own terroir. The wines should be less Burgundian and reflect their own sense of place. I don’t want to taste an Argentinian Chardonnay that tastes like Burgundy. I want to taste, close my eyes and be transported to the shadows of the Andes, not to the Côte d’Or,’ he says.

It is not just in the foothills of the Andes that an emerging style of Argentinian Chardonnay shines bright. An experiment with the variety in Patagonia has also seen thrilling results at sea level, from the most southerly vineyard in the world, in the province of Chubut.

As the newest (and windiest) location on the wine map of Argentina, Bodega Otronia first planted its vines there with the intention to grow grapes for sparkling wine. The cool conditions were thought perfect for the piercing acidity required for such wines but initial tastings prompted a rethink when those challenging conditions delivered still wines of distinction.

‘Because of the unique characteristics of the terroir, the wines develop elegant, complex aromas with vibrant acidity and also great phenolic maturity,’ Otronia’s Commercial Director, Max Rocca tells me.

For Barnes, an IWSC judge, it is this emerging diversity of styles across Argentina that’s so exciting for lovers of Chardonnay: ‘I think we are starting to see different regional expressions emerging from Argentina today, with a clear mountain identity coming to the fore in regions like Gualtallary, with a more austere expression and mineral undertone. Beyond Mendoza, there are also some interesting expressions coming from the cool climate of Chubut with its pulsating acidity and aromatic intensity. Speaking overall for Argentinian Chardonnay, oak and ripeness of fruit has been dialed back in general, which is a welcome shift.’

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