Burgundy

Burgundy 2017

Introductions and recommendations by
Sarah Marsh MW

We live in the age of the celebrity, and wine is no exception. Burgundy is quietly gripped by a cult of winemakers who share the limelight with their celebrated vineyards. Their wine is difficult to obtain (even more so with the added pressure of a run of small harvests) and is shared among an expanding world of Burgundy enthusiasts.

But there are plenty of magnificent and obtainable wines. If you’re just beginning to explore Burgundy, 2017 is a good year to start because there is no shortage of wine: it’s the first good-sized vintage after a string of low crops, 2016 being particularly small.

There has never been such a time of opportunity, optimism or burgeoning talent. The superstar winemakers are sharing their wisdom and experience with a new generation, which is revitalising old family domaines that have hitherto relied on the reputation of their famous appellation.

There is an expectation of quality, and there are young winemakers who relish fulfilling it. Some have spent a decade or so honing their vineyards and winemaking, and they now challenge the cult winemakers in all but fame. You should pounce on them while their following is small.

There are also newly minted domaines, including Clos de la Chapelle and Terres de Velle. You can bemoan the culture of outside investment in Burgundy or enjoy the results.

The energy in Burgundy today has also fuelled the rise of the small négociant, the merchant who makes wine from grapes purchased from multiple sources. It’s a time-honoured system that is no longer the preserve of the merchant houses but is widespread at many domaines as land prices soar out of reach. And for many aspiring winemakers, with no land of their own, it offers an exciting, if expensive, chance to edge in. Among the most interesting négociants are those starting from scratch, like Jane Eyre, or Géraldine Lochet in a barn in Rosey, or Andrew and Emma Nielsen at Le Grappin, who began by making wine in a garage.

There are now many more opportunities for passionate incomers. Australians such as the Nielsens, Mark Haisma and Jane Eyre; Belgian Gilles Moustie of Domaine de la Douaix; former taxi driver Ludovic Martin – are all perfectionists, micro-négociants, sourcing small quantities of fruit from interesting terroir. Some of these are well on their way to celebrity, but equally there are many unassuming winemakers, such as Pierre Damoy and Rémi Jobard, quietly making delicious wines and staying under the radar.

In 2017, Pinot Noir produced an abundance of ripe red fruit, and the whites are discreet and bright. In terms of energy and substance, the Côte de Nuits has the edge over the Côte de Beaune, where overcropping can be an issue. But these are cavils. It’s a fruity, upfront, softly tannic, relaxed and friendly vintage. It’s immensely pleasurable – and rather usefully, many of the wines can be drunk young.

Sarah Marsh MW writes The Burgundy Briefing Vintage Report, an annual in-depth assessment of the quality and style of the vintage with a review of 100+ domaines on the Côte d’Or. After 15 years of writing the BBVR, she has embarked on an exciting new terroir adventure, making her own wine in Burgundy under the label Sarah Anne Marsh.

Top Rated Bottles

Nicolas Faure, La Corvée de Bully, 2017

Score
85
100
Bourgogne aligoté AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2021
  • Nutty
  • Smoky
  • Spicy
Learn More

Meurgey-Croses, Macon Uchizy, 2017

Score
85
100
Mâcon AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2020
  • Approachable
  • Rounded
  • Sunny
Learn More

Domaine Justin Giradin, Les Terrasses de Bievaux, 2017

Score
86
100
Santenay AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2022
  • RRP £16
  • Bright
  • Fresh
  • Fruity
Learn More

Domaine Agnès Paquet, Les Perrières 1er Cru, 2017

Score
86
100
Saint-Aubin AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2024
  • RRP £31
  • Energetic
  • Mineral
  • Zesty
Learn More

Maison Géraldine-Louise, Les Chaniots 1er Cru, 2017

Score
87
100
Montagny AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2023
  • Energetic
  • Mineral grip
  • Structured
Learn More

Domaine Terre de Velle, Les Sous-Roches, 2017

Score
88
100
Monthelie AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2022
  • Bright
  • Chalky finish
  • Lime blossom
Learn More

Domaine des Hâtes, L’Homme Mort 1er Cru, 2017

Score
88
100
Chablis Premier Cru AOP
  • From 2019
  • To 2024
  • RRP £20.5
  • Fresh
  • Generous
  • Smooth
Learn More

Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet, Clos De La Chatenière 1er Cru, 2017

Score
90
100
Saint-Aubin AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2027
  • RRP £35
  • Dense
  • Intense
  • Structured
Learn More

Domaine Clos de La Chapelle, Sous Frétille 1er Cru, 2017

Score
90
100
Pernand-Vergelesses AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2027
  • Lively
  • Mineral
  • Savoury
Learn More

Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, La Garenne 1er Cru, 2017

Score
90
100
Puligny-Montrachet AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2025
  • Light
  • Pure
  • White flowers
Learn More

Domaine Pernot-Belicard, Champ Canet 1er Cru, 2017

Score
93
100
Puligny-Montrachet AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2025
  • RRP £45.83
  • Creamy
  • Elegant
  • Rounded
Learn More

Chateau Génot-Boulanger, Les Bouchères 1er Cru, 2017

Score
93
100
Meursault AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2027
  • Exotic
  • Floral
  • Tannic
Learn More

Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot, Caillerets 1er Cru, 2017

Score
94
100
Puligny-Montrachet AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2027
  • Concentrated
  • Layered
  • Stony
Learn More

Domaine Lamy-Caillat, La Romanée 1er Cru, 2017

Score
95
100
Chassagne-Montrachet AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2030
  • Pure
  • Savoury
  • Tight
Learn More

Domaine Ballot-Millot, Les Perrières 1er Cru, 2017

Score
96
100
Meursault AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2027
  • RRP £90
  • Focussed
  • Powerful
  • Pure
Learn More

Domaine Remi Jobard, Genevrières 1er Cru, 2017

Score
96
100
Meursault AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2026
  • RRP £73
  • Bright
  • Mineral
  • Perfumed
Learn More

Domaine Marc Antonin, Blain, 2017

Score
97
100
Chassagne-Montrachet AOP
  • From 2023
  • To 2032
  • Aromatic
  • Full-bodied
  • Masculine
Learn More

Domaine Bernard Moreau, 2017

Score
98
100
Chevalier-Montrachet AOP
  • From 2025
  • To 2035
  • RRP £46.4
  • Chiselled
  • Focussed
  • Layered
Learn More

Domaine de la Douaix, Vieilles Vignes, 2017

Score
85
100
Côte de Nuits-villages AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2022
  • Chunky
  • Liquorice
  • Robust
Learn More

Domaine Jean Marc Bouley, 2017

Score
86
100
Bourgogne Hautes-côtes de Beaune AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2023
  • RRP £21
  • Tannic
  • Vibrant
  • Zesty
Learn More

Ludovic Martin, Les Longecourts, 2017

Score
87
100
Nuits-Saint-Georges AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2025
  • RRP £30.83
  • Fine
  • Fresh
  • Soft
Learn More

Domaine Jerome Galeyrand, Les Champs des Charmes, 2017

Score
89
100
Fixin AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2025
  • Elegant
  • Fresh
  • Silky
Learn More

Domaine Jean Fournier, Clos-du-Roy, 2017

Score
89
100
Marsannay AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2025
  • RRP £27
  • Juicy
  • Moreish
  • Succulent
Learn More

Domaine Remi Rollin, Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru, 2017

Score
90
100
Pernand-Vergelesses AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2027
  • RRP £35.6
  • Mineral
  • Perfumed
  • Smooth
Learn More

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, 2017

Score
90
100
Gevrey-Chambertin AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2027
  • Seductive
  • Silky
  • Supple
Learn More

Domaine Chevrot, Le Croix Moines 1er Cru, 2017

Score
90
100
Maranges AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2029
  • Mineral
  • Rich
  • Seductive
Learn More

Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Façonnières 1er Cru, 2017

Score
91
100
Morey-Saint-Denis AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2030
  • RRP £53.68
  • Juicy
  • Salty
  • White pepper
Learn More

Le Grappin, Boucherottes 1er cru, 2017

Score
92
100
Beaune AOP
  • From 2020
  • To 2027
  • RRP £43.43
  • Floral
  • Fresh
  • Rounded
Learn More

Domaine Jean Tardy, Aux Argillats 1er Cru, 2017

Score
92
100
Nuits-Saint-Georges AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2029
  • RRP £89.46
  • Plump
  • White pepper
  • Zesty
Learn More

Domaine Y Clerget, Clos du Verseuil 1er Cru (Monopole), 2017

Score
93
100
Volnay AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2028
  • Harmonious
  • Smooth
  • Textured
Learn More

Jane Eyre, Les Corbeaux 1er Cru, 2017

Score
93
100
Gevrey-Chambertin AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2032
  • RRP £75.6
  • Dark fruit
  • Firm
  • Punchy finish
Learn More

Mark Haisma, Les Chaffots 1er Cru, 2017

Score
94
100
Morey-Saint-Denis AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2030
  • RRP £74.6
  • Delicate tannins
  • Savoury
  • Structured
Learn More

Domaine Heitz-Lochardet, Rugiens 1er Cru, 2017

Score
94
100
Pommard AOP
  • From 2021
  • To 2029
  • Cool saltiness
  • Delicate
  • Red peppercorn
Learn More

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, Les Suchots 1er Cru, 2017

Score
96
100
Vosne-Romanée AOP
  • From 2022
  • To 2032
  • Dense
  • Juicy
  • Muscular
Learn More

Domaine Launay Horiot, 2017

Score
98
100
Latricières-Chambertin AOP
  • From 2023
  • To 2032
  • Delicate tannins
  • Persistent
  • Rose petal
Learn More

Domaine Pierre Damoy, 2017

Score
98
100
Chambertin-Clos-de-Beze AOP
  • From 2023
  • To 2032
  • Heady
  • Rose petal
  • Sumptuous
Learn More

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