In 19th century France, married women weren’t entitled to a bank account or able to pay wages, meaning running a business was a non-starter. The only way around this was rather extreme – a dead husband. Widow status bestowed the independent social standing that most women, who were essentially the property of the men in their lives, were denied. A widow, in contrast, achieved financial independence and could become the head of a family business.

As it happens, Champagne is a story of widows, its production notable for yielding one of the first industries in which women took a leading role. Indeed so successful were these pioneers that several Champagne houses added the title Veuve to their name just to add mystique – and commensurate market value.

For much of the second half of the 20^th century, its ownership was bounced around and many of its vineyards – which were once recognised as among the finest in the region – sold. Many commentators, myself included, expected Pommery to become a minor player at best, or even to disappear completely, and certainly it went through some hard times prior to ending up in the hands of today’s owners, the Vranken family. That Pommery now appears stronger than ever says much about the current management team.

For me, Pommery is a house that has always been there, but in the guise of a venerable old house rather stagnating in the background. A house with an important history and beautiful cellars, but whose wines have, until now, never stuck with me. This tasting, of the house’s prestige cuvée named after its famous widow, changed all that.