There were straightforward, youthful, berry-flavoured non-vintage rosés, but also those that tasted of Champagne first and rosé second, such as Charles Heidsieck Rosé Réserve or Henriot Rosé. Add the diverse methods of winemaking, from blending to maceration or a combination of the two, and today’s consumers can savour such a breadth within the category that I guarantee that, within the report’s recommendations there is a rosé to suit even rosé-sceptics.

One word of warning, though. It is easy to be seduced by a rosé’s colour, which tells us a lot about the wine’s style – hence why many producers have begun bottling their rosés in clear-glass bottles. These may look appealing and aid sales, but transparent glass is such a risk to wine quality that offering colourless bottles without protection (such as coloured cellophane or gift boxes) should not be countenanced. Light-strike is one of the most poorly recognised faults in the wine world. A few minutes’ exposure, in particular, to the ultraviolet and blue rays of light, is more than enough to produce unpleasant sulphur compounds that may stink of cooked cabbage, rotten eggs, smelly cheese or even sewage. Thus, extreme caution should be in place when buying rosé in clear-glass bottles.

Rosé Champagne’s great stylistic versatility can also bring uncertainty in the mind of the consumer. Non-vintage rosé is produced by almost every house, so there is no shortage of choice here. The elegantly delicate Billecart-Salmon Rosé and the flavoursome and vinous Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé are the NV category’s true classics for a good reason. Long ageing is to be savoured, especially in Henriot’s complex and mellow rosé. Admirers of noticeable oak influence and extra vinosity in their rosé will enjoy Alfred Gratien’s or Bollinger’s renderings. I found Henri Giraud’s clay amphorae fermented Dame-Jane Rosé to be something delightfully different; and beyond the usual suspects, I was also much taken with Leclerc Briant Rosé, Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Rosé and Canard-Duchêne Charles VII Rosé.

The vintage category for rosé champagne is tiny, yet offers magnificent bottlings. I was especially charmed by the elegant and age-worthy Charles Heidsieck Rosé 2008 as well as the beautifully structured Philipponnat Cuvée 1522 Rosé 2012. The fine 2012 Pinot Noir year also produced fabulous vintage rosés at Henriot and Veuve Clicquot.

Finally, there are the majestic prestige cuvée rosés, the crème de la crème of pink Champagne produced in minuscule volume and often priced accordingly. These are some of Champagne’s most age-worthy and gastronomic wines boasting textured appeal and Burgundian complexity. Here, the battle was tough and the contenders numerous. Right behind my top choice, the supremely elegant Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2013, the race was tied between six stunning rosés: Billecart Salmon Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2008, Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2014, Dom Pérignon Rosé 2008, Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé 2007, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut 2008 and Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé Brut 2006. The category’s biggest surprise for me was the Clicquot 2006 , which is only now starting to show its grandeur and full complexity, owing much to its unique red wine sourced from the Clos Colin vineyard in Bouzy.

Below is a list of the ten top-scoring rosé Champagnes from the tasting. To see the full results, head to The Champagne Report 2022.