The rise of Nebbiolo
Features
For devotees, it is Italy’s most profound grape. For naysayers, it’s pale yet tannic. Now, collectors’ love affair with Burgundy is putting Nebbiolo in the spotlight – and not just in its Barolo and Barbaresco heartland
Walter Speller is the Italian specialist at JancisRobinson.com, where he reports on Italian wine, drawing in cultural, historic and socio-economic aspects. A contributing editor to The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine, Speller is obsessed with reporting on rare local grapes and denominations on the brink of extinction.
For devotees, it is Italy’s most profound grape. For naysayers, it’s pale yet tannic. Now, collectors’ love affair with Burgundy is putting Nebbiolo in the spotlight – and not just in its Barolo and Barbaresco heartland
Once the undisputed darlings of the fine wine scene, the ultra-expensive, ultra-polished Super-Tuscans face a new challenge as the wine world's focus shifts to authenticity, says Walter Speller