Eclectic seems an appropriate word to describe the Martini menu at Brutes. Opened in London in April, the bar serves its stiff drinks dry, wet, dirty or ‘brutal’, with the choice between a gin or vodka base and a selection of culinary accoutrements. Garnishes range from a bump of caviar to blue cheese olives – the majority of which feel fitting for the Mayfair setting. But Brutes is also putting one less swanky snack front and centre: the humble crisp.
A stainless steel sundae cup heaped with extra virgin olive oil crisps and topped with Ibérico ham and smoked pickled chillies tops the bar’s snack menu. Plus, the Brutes take on a classic Gibson Martini swaps out the picked onion for a side of Monster Munch, giving the same sharp, tangy flavour, but with added crunch.
‘We don’t think everything needs to be fancy just because you’re drinking a Martini in Mayfair,’ says James Stevenson, the brains behind the operation. ‘Monster Munch are delicious, and that mix of salt and acidity works brilliantly with a Martini. We take our drinks seriously, but we don’t want the experience to feel serious. There’s absolutely room for caviar and Monster Munch on the same menu.’
As for the perfect pairing, the Brutal Gin Martini made with Plymouth Navy Strength is Stevenson’s pick. ‘It’s got a proper punch, which is what you need when you’re up against a bag of pickled onion crisps. Anything too delicate just gets bullied. I’d even drop a silverskin pickled onion into the drink, so you’ve got a Gibson in the glass and a Gibson in the bag,’ he says.
This trending bar order got us thinking: what other crisp and drink combinations make for the perfect pairing? We asked five drink experts to share their favourites, from Scampi Fries with French fizz to posh patatas fritas with a jug of Rebujito.
Drinks to pair with crisps, according to experts
Peated Scotch whisky
Selected by Becky Paskin, IWSC judge, drinks writer and founder of OurWhisky Foundation
‘The ultimate crisp to pair with whisky has got to be Frazzles. Although technically a corn-based snack, its savoury, smoky bacon flavour and nostalgic whimsy transforms any peated whisky into a high-low gastronomical experience. It works especially well with heavily-peated single malt Scotch whiskies like Bruichladdich’s Octomore or Ardbeg’s Uigeadail, where it accentuates flavours of barbecued meat. However, they also pair wonderfully with a corn-forward and well-aged Bourbon like Widow Jane 10 Year Old, adding a savoury touch to the whiskey’s sweetness. Ultimately, Frazzles are a big crisp, and they require a big whisky to match.’
Club Oenologique recommends: Bruichladdich Port Charlotte 10 YO Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Rebujito sherry cocktail
Selected by Pritesh Mody, cocktail consultant and Channel 4 drinks expert
‘The best answer to this isn’t just a pairing, it’s a way of life. Make up a jug of Rebujito: fino sherry, lemon-lime soda and mint over ice, drunk by the litre at the Feria in Seville. Next to it: Bonilla a la Vista, the Galician crisps that come in a tin that looks like it should hold paint. Fried in olive oil, barely salted, almost sweet. Fino is saline and bone dry with a bit of almond. The two meet in the middle with the citrus cutting through the oil, the salt softening the sherry, and the crunch of the crisp bringing the whole experience to life.’
Club Oenologique recommends: Bodegas Fundador Torre Macharnudo By Harveys Fino NV
Crémant from the Loire or Savoie
Selected by Honey Spencer, co-founder of Sune and The Poet
‘I’ve been through a lot of crisps in my life, but the first time I tried Scampi Fries, it was game over for all the others. With a level of flavour that feels almost illegal, I was so taken that we’ve decided to serve a Scampi Fries Scotch egg in our new pub, The Poet, opening in Farringdon this month.
‘While the temptation to reach for a crisp pint is strong, I’m going for a good Crémant instead. Ideally from the Loire or Savoie, its creamy, gently yeasty character meets the snack’s unapologetic saltiness, while the bubbles cut through the richness and reset your palate. One bite, one sip, repeat.’
Club Oenologique recommends: Bouvet Ladubay Excellence Brut NV
Junmai Ginjo sake
Selected by Marie Cheong-Thong, IWSC judge and president of the British Sake Association
‘Salt and sake can be a wonderfully harmonious combination, giving us a very good starting point, so why make life difficult? My ideal pairing would be a bowl of freshly fried, sea-salted crisps, maybe with a dusting of powdered seaweed or “Aonori”. Nothing too thick, nothing too greasy, nothing coated in a flavour powder capable of stripping paint from the walls. Alongside it, I’m serving a beautifully balanced junmai ginjo, served chilled, with low acidity, a fine texture and a slightly sweeter profile, made using Association No. 9 yeast, ideally, with a lovely fruity and floral character.
‘The crisp delivers the crunch and salt. The sake brings the fruit, fragrance, gentle sweetness and umami. Neither dominates. Neither shouts. They simply get along splendidly.’
Club Oenologique recommends: Akashi Sake Brewery Junmai Ginjo Sparkling Sake
White Rioja
Selected by Ruchira Neotia, IWSC judge and drinks writer
‘I’ve stopped apologising for my bougie choices. I like my ‘hipster’ coffee and I like fancy crisps. The Torres Ibérico ham crisps are a twofer: sweet, nutty fat of jamón from acorn-munching, prized black pigs (who would inspire envy in the Empress of Blandings) and the salty crunch of a perfectly fried potato. They need a twofer wine: bright acidity to cut through the fat and stand up to the salt; enough structure to meet the crunch and complex flavour chops of umami-laced, sweet and nutty ham.
‘An aged Rioja Blanco is sensational here – complex, perfectly textured, with balanced acidity to slice through the ‘grease’. Deliciously nutty, with light vanilla and dried fruit to match the jamón. A wine and crisp to finish each other’s sentences, as it were. I’d go with Faustino Gran Reserva Blanco for exceptional value, or López de Heredia’s nutty, oxidative Viña Gravonia, if you wanted to up your bougie game.’
Club Oenologique recommends: Compañía Bodeguera de Valenciso, Valenciso 2023
