Umberto Marchiori is a winemaker who might fairly be described as spumante. His effervescent energy, frankness and genuine love of wine is instantly recognisable to anyone who has shared a glass or two with a passionate winemaker. As part of a group invited for the IWSC Global Judging in Conegliano Valdobbiadene, I was able to talk and taste with Marchiori about the future of both his wines and Prosecco Superiore DOCG.
Here on these steep slopes, certified as UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2019, staked vines are planted up back-breaking slopes on narrow, handmade terraces that wind their way along the higgledy-piggledy hills of the region. The expansion of Prosecco beyond these heartlands took place in 2009. The vineyards of the original DOC around Conegliano Valdobbiadene were upgraded to DOCG status, while the DOC was extended across a vast swath – some 24,000 hectares – of northeast Italy.
The drier and more nuanced styles on offer in Prosecco Superiore clearly deserve more respect and attention
Over salty cheese, homemade salame and a view across the beautiful DOCG hills, it became clear that Marchiori wasn’t happy that his genuinely exceptional wines go under the same name as the more mundane Prosecco DOC sold around the world. ‘With Prosecco there exists a beverage and there exists wine,’ Marchiori says. ‘Here, we make wine.’ While high volume Prosecco DOC forms the mainstay of ranges from supermarkets to independent merchants, the smaller production Prosecco Superiore DOCG wines have struggled to get noticed in competitive export markets, even though they’re widely enjoyed in the region. However, the drier and more nuanced styles on offer in Prosecco Superiore clearly deserve more respect and attention – as 2025’s IWSC global judging in the region demonstrated.
Throughout most of the 20th century, Prosecco was produced in an Extra Dry style that was sweeter than Brut. But like many sparkling wine regions, the Conegliano Valdobbiadene hills have experienced a warming of the climate in recent decades. The result is riper fruit, lower acidity and less need to have residual sugar in the wines.
In the judges’ view, the traditional Extra Dry style was impressively consistent in terms of overall scores but the drier wines bottled as Brut, Extra Brut and Brut Nature are clearly where the region’s top winemakers are directing their attention – and their best fruit.
Across the IWSC in-situ judging panel, it was these wines that truly stood out, consistently earning the highest scores. All the gold medals awarded went to Brut styles; Brut also claimed around half of the silver medals with 11 in total.
There were simply more peaks in the Brut category than in any other, with wines of crystalline purity and delineation that showed just how refined Prosecco Superiore can be. As Vincenzo Arnese remarked, ‘the Brut Nature and Extra Brut styles really stood out for their ability to express the unique identity of individual sites and offer the clearest window into the terroir. But it was the Brut category that ultimately captured my attention. It showed great vibrancy and freshness, followed by a soft, rounded mid-palate and a substantial, lingering finish.’
Despite the fact that Prosecco DOC is a household name, Prosecco Superiore DOCG remains underappreciated
For Melania Battiston, the Brut wines were ‘the most consistent in terms of quality, and also the most versatile for food pairing.’ During our visits and tastings, many producers were keen to stress that these drier styles are well-suited to the traditional snacks of the apero hour in Italy, as well as lighter meals.
With volumes currently at 40% of production and rising, Brut is a rapidly growing category for the DOCG, delivering a more layered and transparent style of Prosecco that aligns with drier tastes globally among sparkling wine drinkers. As Megan Clarke put it, ‘Brut is an excellent place to start for people wanting more depth to their Prosecco,’ while Cat Lomax observed that ‘the best Brut wines were incredibly pure, joyful and charming, showcasing the hugely enjoyable primary fruit of the Glera grape.’
Unfortunately, Prosecco Superiore DOCG is currently something more likely to be found in the Veneto than in export markets; it represents only 10% of all Prosecco sales in the UK. The truth is that it has mostly been displaced by cheaper Prosecco DOC since the reforms of 2009. ‘The challenge now is to make consumers more aware of this drier DOCG style and that it’s worth trading up for,’ Helena Nicklin pointed out. ‘We need more available on our shelves, especially in the supermarkets.’
So, while the judges unanimously agreed that these wines were worth seeking out, to discover many of the best producers, a visit to the region may be required, at least for the moment. Once home to the summer residences of wealthy Venetians keen to escape the humidity of the lagoon, today both wineries and hotels offer comfortable accommodation, and good restaurants are plentiful. With its spectacular vineyards, rolling hills and handsome Palladian villas, the local wine route – La Strada del Prosecco – also offers a scenic way to experience the region’s uniquely beautiful landscape and distinctive regional food.
Despite the fact that Prosecco DOC is a household name, Prosecco Superiore DOCG remains underappreciated. While Venice may be the obvious city to visit for more than 20 million tourists a year, the discreet charm of Conegliano Valdobbiadene and its impressive Prosecco sits just outside the spotlight.
Prosecco Superiore DOCG: Six gold medal-winning Brut wines
Bortolomiol 70th Anniversary, Rive Di Col San Martino Extra Brut 2022
IWSC judges were impressed with the aromatics of ‘delightful toasty brioche intertwined with candied lime and mineral notes’ and a weighty texture on the palate of ‘wildflowers, peach, and quince’. The finish is ‘elegantly lingering, leaving a lasting impression of sophistication and poise’. 96 points
Valdo Cuvée Di Boj Brut NV
‘An enticing bouquet of exotic florals, ripe apricots, and a whisper of passionfruit’ said the IWSC panel. On the palate ‘succulent peach juice and juicy quince intertwine, creating a harmonious structure’. The finish has ‘a touch of minerality and an elegant, savoury complexity’. 96 points
Vincenzo Toffoli Brut 2024
‘A gentle expression of Prosecco’, that has ‘vibrant citrus and rounded pear notes’ that ‘harmonise beautifully’ according the judges. The finish is ‘ethereal and refreshing’ and ‘offers a delicate, airy quality that lingers with a subtle dryness, inviting you to savour each sip en plein air!’ 95 points
Guia Incipit Sui Lieviti Brut Nature 2022
The panel was charmed by a ‘bouquet of ripe apple and pear, underpinned by a hint of honey and citrus zest’ and impressed by a ‘textured, rocky finish, complemented by toasty almond and a whisper of fresh grass, leaving a delightful, lingering impression’. 95 points
Andreola Marna Del Bacio Rive Di San Pietro Di Barbozza Extra Brut 2024
The IWSC judging panel loved the nose of ‘candied grapefruit zest and delicate pear drop, complemented by a hint of floral meadow blossoms’. The palate showcases a ‘zesty freshness with ‘attractive baked apple nuances’. The finish is ‘long and mineral’ with ‘a touch of salinity and elegance’. 95 points
Dal Din Brut NV
Judges noted ‘a vibrant bouquet of Granny Smith apple, ripe yellow apples, and blossoming jasmine.’ The palate ‘unfolds with delicate white tea nuances, lively acidity, and a refined mousse. Hints of pear and white blossom add allure, leading to a crisp, mineral finish that lingers beautifully.’ 95 points
