South Africa is a place undergoing a great deal of change when it comes to its wine, as I saw, heard and tasted as an IWSC judge there this year. Despite wine production and consumption growing in South Africa, vineyards are decreasing as many winemakers shift from large-scale operations to become smaller, higher quality producers. There is increasing demand for premium wines that showcase South Africa’s terroir and creating quality wines on a smaller scale can command higher prices and enable farmers to work sustainably more easily.
The Cap Classique category, South Africa’s traditional method sparkling wine, shone brightest for the judges, winning 29 medals. ‘Champagne is all grown up and can take care of itself,’ says Heidi Duminy CWM and principal of the Cape Wine Academy, ‘but Cap Classique is at a really exciting time in its trajectory.’ Though only established as a category 53 years ago, it is now the fastest growing in the country, with the number of bottles produced doubling every 4.5 years.
There is increasing demand for premium wines that showcase South Africa’s terroir
An explosion in domestic consumption means the majority of Cap Classique is sold in South Africa itself, particularly among groups not always associated with wine. If members of Gen Z, not known for their enthusiasm for alcohol, do choose to drink wine, they are most likely to select a sparkling. This may partly be because several high-profile South African celebrities have drawn attention to Cap Classique by launching their own, such as TV presenter Bonang Matheba’s incredibly popular The House of BNG in 2019, actress Minnie Dlamini’s MD by Minnie Dlamini in 2020 and Olympic swimmer Chad le Clos’s collaboration with Deetlefs Estate in 2022.
The lifestyle image surrounding Cap Classique captured South Africa’s imagination, especially, Duminy explains, within the ‘Black Diamond’ group, a socio-economic term for the affluent black middle and upper classes that emerged in the early 2000s. Benefitting from post-apartheid opportunities and access to education, they represent a powerful consumer force for the industry, moving away from beer and spirits towards luxury goods and hospitality experiences, such as premium Cap Classique.
With the ability to appeal to audiences that other wines do not, Cap Classique is further expanding its allure with the creation of ‘Nectar’, something yet to catch on in the UK. Nectar, a recognised category in its own right, typically has 20-50 grams of sugar per litre (g/l) (most Cap Classique is classified as Brut, which must be 12g/l or less) and caters to those who seek a sweeter, fruitier fizz. It is one of the most widely growing styles in the country. ‘We are trying to lure the elusive Gen Z,’ jokes Duminy, ‘but the truth is we only became successful when we decided to stop trying to be Champagne. We are too young to be limiting styles and grape varieties, we are still finding out what works.’
With the ability to appeal to audiences that other wines do not, Cap Classique is further expanding its allure with the creation of ‘Nectar’
Currently a Cap Classique must be aged on lees for a minimum of 12 months, in line with Champagne, but there is a petition for a Prestige Cuvée class that would require 36 months and create another opportunity to elevate the wines. Vintage rosés also have the potential to expand with only three premium vintage rosés existing currently: the Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé and another by Le Lude and Colmant respectively.
When asked what had most stood out for them during the IWSC South African in-situ judging this year, judges John Hoskins MW and Rebecca Palmer, head of merchant buying at Corney & Barrow, were both quick to praise the sparkling wine, with Waitrose Cellar’s wine buyer Xenia Ruscombe-King MW adding: ‘I think what I’ve learned this week is that I’m really impressed by Cap Classique and that it doesn’t have to be vintage to be impressive.’
Medals were awarded to wines made from Champagne favourites Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also field blends and Sauvignon Blanc. Winners ranged from Pongràcz’s sweet Noble Nectar to Graham Beck’s Ultra Brut 2017, which swept up a gold alongside four others. As a country that deftly walks the line between new and old-world styles, South Africa may well be the wine region to turn to when seeking to pop a cork.
Cap Classique wines: five of the best
Villiera Wines, Villiera Monro Brut 2017
A rich and complex sparkler brimming with juicy fruit flavours. Notes of golden apple, orange and lemon peel are woven seamlessly with flourishes of toasted brioche and marzipan. The palate offers concentrated, defined flavours and a creamy complexity, which lingers on the finish. 97 points
Pongràcz Desiderius 2018
Alluring notes of buttered toast and popcorn on the nose, with a savoury profile on the palate. Layered flavours of fresh green apple, crisp lemon, and umami, building to a bright and zesty finish with a hint of salinity. Complex and interesting with a fine mousse that exudes sophistication. 96 points
Newstead, Blanc de Blancs MCC Brut 2017
Aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits intertwine with a nutty richness, exuding amazing depth. The palate reveals light creamy characters with an incisive, lacy texture, balanced by fresh, chalky acids and creamy berry notes. The finish is rich, rounded, and impressively persistent. 96 points
Graham Beck, MCC Ultra Brut 2017
Fragrant fresh lemon and brioche aromas, met on the palate with crisp apple, biscuit and blossom notes. It showcases lively acidity and a vibrant, persistent mousse, culminating in a toasty, flavoursome end. Energetic and playful with some serious poise. 95 points
£20.40 (2016 vintage), vinvm.co.uk
