While it’s a city where the négociants have held sway, Bordeaux’s wine merchants have traditionally serviced clients around the world and through the somewhat intangible sale of en primeur wines buried deep in their bonded warehouses. But there’s a rising scene of Bordeaux wine boutiques tapping into the increasing number of visitors drawn to a city famous for its wine – and perhaps hoping for a little souvenir to take away from their visit.
There’s a rising scene of Bordeaux wine boutiques tapping into the increasing number of visitors drawn to a city famous for its wine
As a collector himself – of medieval art, recipe books and eclectic curios – Prince Robert of Luxembourg, owner of Domaine Clarence Dillon (which counts Château Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion among its holdings), knows this audience well. He details how one question lay central to the opening of the group’s original wine shop, La Cave du Château in Paris: ‘At the end of the day, how do we produce something that will attract even ourselves?,’ he says. Tapping into the psyche of his fellow collectors, he and the team were able to flesh out a list of desirable wines from across France to populate the boutique’s smart shelves. It’s a formula that’s been successful enough to spawn a second shop at the Chateau’s visitor centre and a third in the heart of Bordeaux, which opened on La Place de Tourny this spring.
It’s not the only wine shop in Bordeaux that defers to other regions despite the illustrious location. The logic follows that Bordeaux visitors and residents alike are sure to have a love of fine wine that doesn’t just stay loyal to the local. Should you be less tied to the idea of snapping up a Grand Vin for the cellar, the city’s passion for all kinds of wine can be witnessed at shops like Au Bon Jaja, which doubles as a bar and throngs with life after hours, altogether going against the preconceptions of Bordeaux as a stuffy, old-school wine city.
And while the small matter of strict allocations on the latest releases might make the classed growth wines hard to come by, there are some strong exceptions for shopping in Bordeaux. Look for places that are able to work their contact book. For example, L’Intendant, opposite the Grand Théâtre, is owned by one of the city’s leading négociants, which boasts connections with 500 Bordeaux châteaux including a number of Grand Cru properties. If you want to increase your chances of getting a hand on some of the region’s most desired labels further still, many of these wine boutiques foster relationships with customers through in-store events, including tastings with the makers. Get on their books and who knows what the inside track might offer?
Five top wine boutiques in Bordeaux city
La Cave du Château: Bordeaux
3 Place de Tourny
Opening its doors this spring on the Place de Tourny, La Cave du Château is a spin-off from the physical Paris shop and online e-store and shares the bold aim of becoming ‘one of the finest retailers in France,’ according to its owner Prince Robert of Luxembourg. It boasts 800 references, from wines for the everyday to small hidden gems – mostly hailing from within France, with just a few exceptions. At the entrance, there’s muted décor that allows the rows of bottles from across the country to do the talking, with Burgundy and Bordeaux tucked to the rear – although currently its store managers say they get more enquiries for Jura than for Burgundy. Loyal customers are promised access to deals that won’t be found online (with the shop’s Haut-Brion connection, it might be a worthwhile pursuit), and there’s an aim for the space to be put to use for client events and premium tastings by reservation. Plus, come the summer, the shop has added tables to its terrace on the attractive roundabout for customers to enjoy a glass.
L’Intendant
2 Allees de Tourny
The provenance of bottles from the top châteaux is assured at L’Intendant thanks to the shop’s ownership: Duclot is one of Bordeaux’s oldest negociants and its holding company also owns Petrus. With its connections and its history, you can expect to find the like of Lafite and Latour on the shelves. Indeed, L’Intendant has a library of 1,600 labels and a heavy focus on the wines of the region; its references include those higher up the classification system as well as producers from smaller appellations. A sweeping spiral staircase encased in bottle-lined shelves is often the star of social media posts but take the journey IRL to be led up the scale of prestige, with large format and hard-to-find vintages reserved for the top, five storeys up.
Badie
60-62 Allees de Tourny
This address on Allee de Tourny has a historic reputation as a pioneering Bordeaux wine merchant, first opened by Madame Badie in 1880. In its current incarnation, Badie is another shop in the Duclot family portfolio and also promises to sell the finest bottles from Bordeaux estates – but this time alongside a first-rate selection of Champagne. Its list reads like a who’s who of the sparkling region. Other leading regions of France are also represented in the boutique’s offering of 3,500 labels, and regular masterclasses led by the shop’s sommelier team bring you closer to the trends and regions to watch right now. Be mindful that the shop is currently closed in-part for renovation but rebooting in the autumn of 2024 with its new, improved look.
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Au Bon Jaja
4 Cours d’Alsace-et-Lorraine
Its charming terrace by day and its neon-lit interior by night might draw plenty of thirsty visitors to Au Bon Jaja for a glass of wine but this hybrid Bordeaux destination is just as deserving of a shopping trip as it is a drinking session. The vibrant bar and shop just up from the banks of the Garonne champions biodynamic and organic wine – and the best part is you can try before you commit to buying a whole bottle. Colourful labels line the shelves, unpretentious staff are on hand for guidance and the selection of bottles offers a window into some of the emerging winemaking trends currently sweeping the country, with a strong selection from the Loire and Burgundy to boot.
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Max Bordeaux
14 Cours de l’Intendance
Maximum pleasure is on the agenda at Max Bordeaux in the Triangle D’Or, signalled by its decorative ceiling installation of inverted wine glasses and its prominent Enomatic machines on the shop floor. The venue doubles as a tasting space (or ‘wine gallery’, in its own words) where popular masterclasses can be arranged for visiting groups and where trying by the glass is encouraged during browsing sessions; but rest assured that you can take a bottle or case away with you after a visit. There are 45 famous crus represented: from Margaux to Cheval Blanc, Yquem, Smith Haut Lafitte, Domaine de Chevalier… The caviste calls itself a Grand Cru specialist with an aim to make these sought-after wines far more accessible.
