The Rhône is famously one of the best value wine regions on the planet, and when drinking in situ, bottles are even more affordable – mark-ups at much lower than in New York or London. If there is one grumble, however, when eating out in the Rhône, it’s the paucity of wines served by the glass. Even in bistros that really understand wine, you might only find a couple of reds, whites and rosés to choose from, and they’re rarely the most exciting. But when the wines by the bottle are so well priced, perhaps it’s not such a big deal. We’ve put together a list of the best bistros across the Rhône that have both excellent wine lists and delicious food, all representing superb value. Read on to discover more.
The 30 best bistros to visit across the Rhône Valley
Northern Rhône
Café Terroir
Lyon
Finding somewhere than can tick all the boxes – food, wine, service and ambiance – is never easy, even in a city like Lyon. Café Terroir manages to pull it off, while still offering a relaxed and informal vibe. Rather than a classic Lyon bouchon, it has a contemporary aesthetic, and is somewhere between a bistro and a wine bar. You can expect all the Lyonnais classics on the menu – snails, pâte en croute, terrine – plus haut-rotisserie (if that’s a thing), plates of cheese and desserts. The wine list plucks gleaming gems from Burgundy, the Jura and the Rhône. La Cave Café Terroir is their wine bar just opposite which is also recommended. cafeterroir.fr
Les Epicurieux
Ampuis
On the one hand, this is a wine shop – a large, square room, its walls crammed with the best of the Northern Rhône. On the other hand, it’s a bistro; in the middle of the room are chairs and tables, where you can order the inexpensive set menu with dishes that go well with Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu. Tack a smaller room with posh Burgundy on one side, a slim bar on the other – and you have Les Epicurieux. Owner Arnaud knows the local wine scene inside out – in fact, you’re bound to bump into some winemakers on their lunch break. Expect winemaker-sized portions! cavelesepicurieux.fr
Le Bistrot de Serine
Ampuis
In the mid-2000s, there was nowhere good to eat in Ampuis. So a band of local winemakers clubbed together and opened Le Bistrot de Serine on the main road opposite the church (where you can park for free). No surprise therefore that the wine list here glitters with the best of Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, accompanied by hearty, correct cooking. It’s a little more formal than Les Epicurieux, but still a relaxed spot – and it benefits from a garden to the rear if the weather is fine or you have kids to entertain. If you find yourself agonizing over what to buy (highly likely), don’t worry – they have a wine shop next door, so you can take some bottles away with you. One of the best bistros for visitors hoping to take a slice of the Rhône away with them. bistrotdeserine.net
La Véraison
Chavanay
There’s no direct translation for véraison – it’s a winemaking term for when grapes turn from unripe green to ripe red. It’s also a clue that this bar in Chavanay – Condrieu country – will have plenty of good bottles to choose from. Even on a cold February lunchtime it was busy; they’re not trying to reinvent the wheel, just serving up classic, calorific lunchtime fare, done well – burgers, steaks, cheese and charcuterie. Plenty of choice by the bottle to drink in or take away. It’s a useful pitstop – there’s a small carpark to the rear, or you can park in front of the train station if it’s full. la-veraison42.fr
La Cage aux Fleurs
Tain l’Hermitage
A colourful newcomer to the Tain l’Hermitage dining scene, La Cage aux Fleurs is conveniently situated just off the N7 that runs through the village with plentiful parking directly outside. You can sit in the bright, contemporary dining room, or outside on the terrace, which is just far enough from the main road. It’s run by a husband-and-wife team and service is polite and professional. Their bistronomic cooking is reliably good, with dishes such as burnt onion tart with black Nyons olives, and grilled veal with panisse (chickpea flour fries). The wine list is concise and well chosen, with a smattering of top-end bottles and older vintages. restaurant-lacageauxfleurs.com
Café Comptoir Abel
Lyon
The bouchon is a Lyon institution – the name signifies a small, often family-owned, restaurant that serves traditional Lyonnais specialities such as rosette (salami), boudin noir (black pudding) saucisson chaud (sliced hot pork sausage), tête de veau (calf’s head terrine), cervelle de canut (it means ‘silk workers’ brains’ but it’s soft cheese and chives) and andouillette (tripe sausage). Some bouchons are tourist traps, but others, such as Café Comptoir Abel, are the real deal – it almost looks like a film set, with its wood panelling, ancient posters and restaurant artifacts. The food is hearty and rustic, the service surprisingly friendly, and you can find good things to drink on the wine list (go by the bottle). You will not leave hungry. For other reliable bouchons, visit lesbouchonslyonnais.org. maisonabel.fr
Le Bateau Ivre
Tain l’Hermitage
If you’ve had a few blow-out nights in Tain l’Hermitage and you just fancy a plate of cheese or charcuterie, go to Le Bateau Ivre next to the footbridge to Tournon. It’s run by a cheerful young team who know what’s going on in the local wine scene, but don’t worry – it’s not all Natural wine, there are all types to choose from. Not to mention local beers – crucial refreshment if you’ve been tasting wine all day. +33 (0)7 83 35 06 84
Le Tournesol
Tournon
Le Tournesol gets everything right. The husband-and-wife team are welcoming and friendly. Their wine list is one of the best in town, with very fair prices. And chef Cyril, who naturally understands fine products, creates dishes that you might find yourself ordering multiple times, such is their outrageous deliciousness – such as truffled croque monsieurs with ham, tartufata and aged gouda; homemade parmesan churros with Majorcan sobrasada mayonnaise; asparagus tartlet with vin jaune foam, morel crumb and morel jus… The table by the door is groaning with digestifs; indulge yourself! letournesol.net
Auberge du Père Monnet
La Roche-de-Glun
A handy stop-off between Tournon and Valence, L’ Auberge du Père Monnet is located next to the river on a little island in the Rhône called La Roche-de-Glun. It offers simple, no frills but authentic bistro cooking on their shady terrace and is one of the best spots in the Rhône for visitors looking for something a little undiscovered. They’ve recently opened a wine shop next door, and both specialise in Natural wine. Co-owner Eric knows all the local players (not least his winemaker son!) so this is an invaluable place to know about if you enjoy low-intervention wines. +33 (0)4 75 84 57 80
Le Bac à Traille
Valence
This is the younger sister of the Michelin-starred La Cachette (situated directly next-door, near the riverside in Valence). Le Bac à Traille opened more recently and consists of a small, square dining room that shares the same calm and sober décor as its sibling, just without the large windows. Chef Masashi Ijichi offers a similarly complex and precise cuisine in both restaurants – French with a Japanese accent. The restaurant gastronomique next door has an excellent list with over 600 bins; the newcomer usually offers an edited version. You can request the main list however if you want to choose from the full range; it contains many hard-to-find local bottles, along with wines from Italy, Spain and beyond – some Natural, some classic. lacachette-valence.fr
Auberge de Crussol
Saint-Péray
The pretty village of Saint-Péray is well worth a day trip. When it’s time to eat, head up to the Auberge de Crussol. It’s a 20-minute hike towards the ruined Château de Crussol, or you can drive up and park in their car park. It’s the perfect spot to visit no matter the season; in summer, you can sit on the airy terrace and take in the view; in winter, the ancient building has numerous snug little nooks and crannies where you can sit. Ask for a table overlooking the kitchen – they cook local ingredients over a roaring wood fire. Cuts of meat are sold by weight; sausage sold by the metre (vegetarians are less well catered-for). The list is short but well chosen, mostly Natural-leaning Northern Rhônes. aubergedecrussol.com
Le Louvre
Valence
There are plenty of high-end dining options in Valence, but if you’re looking for a relatively inexpensive lunch or dinner, Le Louvre is easy to find on Place de la République. Somewhere between wine bar and restaurant, the vibe is relaxed, with an ever changing menu depending on what’s fresh and in season. They’re serious about their wines, with lots of good choices from the Rhône, Loire and further afield, both conventional and Natural-leaning. The team here are serious about quality local produce – even their tea is grown in France. haimat-conciergerie.com/gastronomie/le-louvre
Southern Rhône
Coteaux et Fourchettes
Cairanne
Situated among the endless vineyards of the Plan de Dieu, Coteaux et Fourchettes is a handy place to know about – it’s equidistant from Cairanne, Rasteau and Gigondas, has ample parking and is easy to find. It’s placed right next to a roundabout, but don’t let that put you off – it’s perfectly tranquil on the terrace behind the restaurant. The style is modern but comfortable and everything here is a cut above: the décor, the service, the ingredients and the wine list. Pair a mature white Cairanne with the comté profiterole stuffed with celery risotto and truffle butter served with green asparagus and a creamy sabayon. Then enjoy a young Gigondas with half a roast pigeon with confit leg, variation of carrots, turnips glazed with orange and argan oil with a cumin jus. Finish the meal with a sweet Rasteau. Bliss. coteauxetfourchettes.com
Le Bistrot de l’Oustalet and Le Nez
Gigondas
The Michelin-starred L’Oustalet (see Best Fine Dining) is one of three bars and restaurants in Gigondas owned by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel. The other two – the Bistrot de l’Oustalet and wine bar Le Nez – also excel at their respective levels. The cooking at the Bistrot is heartier than it’s sibling restaurant, offering flavours that pack a punch and dishes that really satisfy, such as rack of Ventoux pork with confit aubergine and grilled courgettes; or a rib of beef smoked with thyme with goats cheese potato gratin and a green salad. Ask to sit in the garden. Le Nez next door occupies a little square where you can stop for a glass and some snacks if you’re just passing through. Both places benefit from warm and knowledgeable staff, and all three establishments share the same cellar, so you can drink extraordinarily well whichever one you visit. loustalet-gigondas.fr
Chez Serge
Carpentras
Do you like truffles? Then pay a visit to Carpentras institution Chez Serge. Monsieur Ghoukassian knows them better than anyone, and during truffle season this is the place to go. The restaurant is a warren of cosy little rooms around a small central courtyard. This bistro has one of the best wine lists – naturally the Southern Rhône is well represented, but you can find good Northern Rhône, Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Languedoc. If it’s full (it’s wise to book in advance) then you can try their wine bar just over the road, Le Petit Serge, which is open Thursday to Sunday. They also sell bottles to take away. chez-serge.fr
Vin Ensen
Caromb
If wine is your number one priority, go to Vin Ensen. This bar restaurant at the heart of the village of Caromb appears pleasant if unremarkable to the naked eye, but open the wine list and you’ll see why this place is so special – it’s a thrilling line-up of Burgundy, Provence, Jura… but mostly Rhône, including lots of hard-to-find producers, for very reasonable prices. Unusually for the Rhône, they even have an exciting list of wines by the glass – and if you don’t see anything that takes your fancy, they’ll open something specially. You can sit inside or out the front for lunch, and they open their rear terrace (with its great views) for dinner. What’s more, they’ve just opened a boutique opposite to sell bottles to take away. Back up the truck. vinensen.com
Première Edition
Avignon
A new addition to the Avignon restaurant scene, Première Edition describes itself as ‘izakaya style’, referring to the informal tapas-style Japanese bars. The food and drinks are French, but it has plenty of interesting drinks and snacks, and the large open kitchen down one side of the long dining room further contributes to the convivial vibe. Dishes like grilled cauliflower cake with sweet-and-sour black chilli sauce, yogurt, celery leaf oil and green leaves feel fresh and original. Wines are natural-leaning. premiereedition.fr
Restaurant l’Agape
Avignon
Some restaurant-lined squares in France are tourist traps that are best avoided. The Place des Corps Saints in the southern part of Avignon, however, is quite the opposite and represents one of the best bistros for new visitors to the Rhône. During weekend lunchtimes and evenings it bustles with busy waiters, tinkling glasses and young children mucking about in the disused fountain – all overlooked by a 14th century church. Restaurant l’Agape has a sizeable space both inside and on the square itself, serving dishes such as roasted trout with almonds, spelt risotto and langoustine bisque. All very wine-friendly – which is ideal, as they have the best wine list on the place. restaurant-agape-avignon.com
Les C
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Situated at the centre of the village, Les C is the newest addition to the dining scene in the village, and has a younger, more casual vibe than most of its neighbours. It’s perfect if you just want some snacks and a glass of wine – unusually, they have raft of options available by the glass. If you want more than just cheese and charcuterie, they also offer larger dishes such as bavette steak, pork cromesqui and butternut squash and hazelnut risotto. baravinlesc.fr
Les Péquélets
Avignon
Cédric Guillaume-Corbin is the owner of an excellent Natural wine estate in Vinsobres called Domaine la Péquélette, meaning ‘the smallest one’ in the local dialect. His two sons Lucien et François own Les Péquélets, a wine bar that serves small plates in the heart of the pedestrianised quarter of Avignon. They’re a cheerful pair with a passion for organic, biodynamic and natural wines, and not just from the Rhône. It’s a handy spot to recharge after a day’s shopping with a bottle from the shelves and a few tasty snacks. cavelespequelets.fr
Le Verger des Papes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
If you saunter up through the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to look at the ruined Château (which you must), you’ll walk past Le Verger des Papes near the top of the hill. It’s a good place to stop for lunch; they have a shady, landscaped terrace where you can take in the amazing views, but if you don’t like the summer heat ask for an indoor table. The hearty Provençal cooking is a good match for robust wines, and naturally they have an extensive list of red and white Châteauneuf to choose from. vergerdespapes.com
Café de France
Caderousse
The sleepy village of Caderousse is a 15-minute drive northwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s home to around 2,600 people, several ancient churches and a couple of small châteaux. More importantly, it’s also home to the restaurant of Corsican chef Christophe Bolis, the Café de France. He is one of those chefs who instinctively understands food – particularly meat – and he loves to feed people. It’s impossible not to eat well here; how about green asparagus with burnt lemon and smoked egg yolk vinaigrette? Or lobster ravioli with Thai basil? The wine list is a thing of beauty – it’s huge, packed with gems, and very reasonably priced. One of the best bistros in the Rhône for those looking to go off the beaten track. cafe-defrance.fr
La Maisouneta
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape has seen something of a facelift over the past five years. One new addition is a small pedestrianised square that’s home to a couple of restaurants. The husband-and-wife team of La Maisouneta offer a warm welcome and honest, local cuisine and fairly-priced wines – it’s an inexpensive option if you’re keeping an eye on your budget. It’s a popular local joint – see if you can spot any winemakers. lamaisouneta.fr
La Fille des Vignes
Uzès
Looking for an inexpensive place to eat in Uzès with a decent choice of wines? Try La Fille des Vignes in the little Place Albert 1er. It’s somewhere between a café and a restaurant – you can drop in for coffee, breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a cool beer to watch the world go by. The main menu has classic French bistro fare: steak frites, hamburger, Caesar salad, cheese plates… all made with good quality local ingredients. Plentiful pastries and desserts make it a hit with kids too. restaurantlafilledesvignes.fr
Le 46
Avignon
You can use Le 46 however you like – it’s open all day for drinks and snacks, or you can come from a full lunch or dinner. They source a lot of products such as cheese and charcuterie from Les Halles, the Avignon temple of fresh ingredients. There’s even a little wine shop corner, which is handy, as they really know their wine here – the list has over 500 bottles, mostly but not exclusively from the Southern Rhône. The vibe is informal, the team is welcoming, and there’s even a friendly golden retriever to pet. Great chips too. One of the best bistros in the Rhône to visit for a relaxed, laid-back vibe. le46avignon.com
Atelier des Halles
Saint Gilles
If you’re spending some time exploring Costières de Nîmes and the Camargue, then Nîmes itself is an obvious place to stop for lunch or dinner. If you’re looking for somewhere off the beaten track, consider Saint Gilles. It has a certain faded charm, and you can stop at the Atelier des Halles for lunch. You can opt for sharing boards, salads or a full menu – start with some Camargue oysters, follow with cod loin with young vegetables and a herbed brandade purée, then finish with a home-made raspberry and white chocolate tartlet. The wine list is short, features many of the best names in Costières de Nîmes, and offers great value for money. After lunch, go and take a look around the 12th century church known as the Abbatiale Saint-Gilles – the façade alone is worth the visit. atelierdeshalles.fr
L’Insolite
Lourmarin
On the long list of villages to visit in the Luberon, Lourmarin is among the loveliest. It’s big and varied enough to spend a day wandering the streets here, visiting the bohemian independent shops, the castle – and the plentiful places to eat and drink. A reliable, informal, (relatively) inexpensive spot is L’Insolite – classic Provençal cuisine, friendly service and a calm but vibrant atmosphere. Friday is market day in Lourmarin, so it’s a good a good day to visit – but make sure you book well in advance. brasserie-linsolite.fr
L’Epicerie de Ginette
Avignon
If you’re travelling to the Rhône with kids then L’Epicerie de Ginette on the Place des Corps Saints in Avignon is one of the best bistros to know. Firstly, it doesn’t close between lunch and dinner service like everywhere else, so you don’t need to panic about timing things perfectly. Secondly, it’s at the end of the square so kids can run around next to the church while they’re waiting. Thirdly, they sell pick-and-mix sweets – perfect for bribery. Fourthly, it’s very affordable. Lastly, they serve salads and open sandwiches (tartines), so you might even find something they’ll eat. Kids or not, it’s a charming little spot to watch the world to by. lepicerie-de-ginette-restaurant-avignon.metro.rest
La Maison de Celou
Châteauneuf de Gadage
The pretty village of Châteauneuf de Gadagne lies between Avignon and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Up in the heights of the old town is the Maison de Celou. It has a beautiful terrace with sweeping views all the way to Mont Ventoux where you can enjoy some artfully presented Provençal cooking. Think trout steak from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with creamed turnips and almonds, or chop and saddle of lamb with panissa and braised artichokes. Don’t miss the flambéed crêpes Suzette to finish for some tableside theatre. lamaisondecelou84.com
La Cabane d’Oléron
Avignon
It doesn’t look much; the ‘cabin’ is essentially a lean-to tacked on to the rear of Les Halles. But don’t be put off – it’s busy for a reason… The seafood here is the best in town: metal platters of incredibly fresh oysters, prawns and whelks stacked on towers whisked to you table along with little tubs of aioli. If only the wine was better; but sometimes – just sometimes – a tumbler of cheap Picpoul de Pinet is all you need. +33 (0)6 98 29 10 88
