Proximity to the Ebro River saved Contino from 2017’s frost; indeed, the conditions of the vintage favoured the white grapes, their fruit shared between stainless steel and new oak barrels of differing sizes and varied provenance. The 2017 is very attractive, with quince and beeswax, hazelnuts and plum indulging us generously, but not too much, and the finish is textbook bittersweet, harmonious and long.