Red wine

Shafer Vineyards, Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

RRP £312

A tough year, with a lot of rain. The nose is perfumed at first, turning meaty and violet-infused – a kind of sweet rot that isn’t unpleasant. There’s fresh green on the palate; again, not unpleasant but rather too evident for a wine this age. For all that, there’s brightness and juice, hints of lovely old washed leather, delicate tannins… Overall a lack of concentration and short length. A curiosity.