The splash of South Australia Cabernet in this wine (14.9%, hence the bin number) made headlines but is a distraction. The rest of the fruit is mainly from Oakville and Rutherford with a bit of Calistoga. The nose is tight and gives little away beyond hints of sweet cherry and a certain spiciness. The palate starts with polished tannins. The fruit isn’t bursting out now but it’s definitely there. There’s a wash of juice over a classic creamy, succulent finish. Accomplished but slightly stateless, like a brand-new art gallery. It’s first-class Cabernet but you’d find it difficult to place if you tried it blind.