The impression from the first sight of the wine in the glass is of depth. It’s a rich deep ruby in colour, the nose is dense with blackberry and fine dark fruit, while the palate is luscious, with blackcurrant, black cherry then sweeter, redder fruit: ripe raspberry darkening and disintegrating on the vine. It’s savoury, earthy (Gaia Gaja is a scholar of soil – how that shows in the wine is another matter; what’s certain is that I’m transported to the rich earth of Piemonte with each sip), the tannins are soft and refreshing, with real grip until the final moments, when they are washed with juice.