2015 is one of those years which, rather like 2004, completely deserves its early reputation and then, with time, climbs towards an even greater reputation. The only way is up. Viña Real Reserva rehearses Burgundian virtues, with a smattering (but only 30%) of American oak added for good luck. The 2015 is a paean of blue fruit, silky generosity and a whistle clean freshness, not overly complex, not hugely concentrated, but fail-safe vin de plaisir, and early pleasure at that.