The old vines in question are sourced from five separate sites, communality coming from the age of the vines, some of which exceed 80 years. A total of 80% of the grapes have been destemmed, and the wine has been brought up over 18 months in barrique, 25% of which is new. The somewhat forthright personality of the vintage is captured in a dark, brooding wine. (One would not go as far as ‘sulking’. There may even be a touch of Brett, but only a touch, I assure you.) Blue-berried fruit – myrtles, perhaps – with hints of laurel and fig, dark chocolate and a whisper of liqueur de cassis. The palate indulges us with similar generosity, the glimmer of imminent redemption provided by the careful juxtaposition of smart tannins and discreet acidity.