A superb viticulturist and winemaker of rare talent, Emmanuel Lassaigne purchases some grapes in addition to cultivating his own vines in the village of Montgueux, yet this single-vineyard Champagne from Le Cotet, a parcel just next to the winery, is all estate grown. It’s complicated in its composition – the current edition contains seven vintages from 2013 back to 2002 – but it’s singular in its expression, balancing Montgueux’s typically creamy, exotic flavours with a fierce chalkiness and an elegantly focused, streamlined structure.