Cirsion is produced from the oldest bush-grown vines in Roda’s Rioja Alta vineyards; winemaker Agustin Santolaya claims the tannins polymerise – soften – “at the very vine”. This £200 bottle is indeed seductive, with a gorgeous earthy, black fruit nose and the silkiest of tannins, fine acidity and a wonderful savoury length. The palate is smoky, autumnal, with bramble (sappy at this stage) high notes of sweet cherry. The whole has tremendous energy. It’s incredibly young and though delicious and easily drinkable now, it needs time – three years at least – to settle and meld. The alcohol is quite noticeable at the moment as well.