The oloroso is drawn from one of seven casks, and is probably (no one is quite sure, as Barbadillo’s records don’t have the relevant details) the oldest wine of the quartet. That extra time has upped the concentration to almost unbearable levels, leavened by a lightning strike of acidity, and the wine is borderline viscous in its concentration. It smells like church pews that have been lovingly polished for centuries, and it’s tinged with smoky incense, notes of coffee, beef stock, nuts and dark cocoa powder. There’s a twist of bitterness on the finish.