Always fascinating to taste this most opulent of vintages. Some of the richest, most extracted wines of that year are falling apart now. Not this one though. It’s perfumed and very powerful from the first sniff, with ripe and intense dark fruit and cocoa powder and a certain meaty, savoury character. The palate dense and concentrated, the high alcohol not intrusive, the violet perfume carried through on a fine acidic wave. A big, powerful wine, built like a weightlifter; it needs a juicy steak to do it justice. Not representative of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, or the appellation, but it’s damn good.