Still in Pauillac, still a first growth, this one takes me to another sea: the feel of the liquid in your mouth is like the feeling of the Sea of Sardinia on your skin when you plunge in – beyond silken. This comes after a supremely confident bouquet – magisterial, dark and sultry, with aromas like flickers of luminosity; scintillations. There are flashes, variously, of violets, cocoa nibs, blossom and peat. Then back in the mouth the grippy, chalky, purring, stroking tannins take over. It has tantric length, and self-possession. A complete wine.