Rioja has built a reputation as one of the world’s most prestigious winemaking regions, producing some of the finest and most complex wines on the market, as documented earlier this year in our Rioja Report. One result of that stellar reputation is wine tourism, with fans of the region’s output eager to visit wineries, explore the sites that help create their favourite wines and, most importantly, drink them in-situ. The influx of visitors has also created a demand for great food, both at the wineries themselves and in the region’s restaurants.
A little local knowledge can go a long way when travelling, revealing hidden gems that you may never discover if relying solely on Google or a guide book. When it comes to places to eat, it’s confidence-inspiring if the recommendations come from locals with a firm grasp of both flavour and the region in question; there can be few people better qualified in those two respects than the winemakers. Lucy Shaw spoke to some of Rioja’s winemakers about where they love to eat – you’ll find their answers and endorsements below.
Rioja restaurant recommendations from the region’s winemakers
Alameda
Alameda in Fuenmayor is a traditional Rioja restaurant owned by husband-and-wife team Tomás and Esther (pictured). Based on top-quality seasonal produce, dishes are deeply rooted in northern Spanish gastronomy. It’s one of those venues where you can have an honest experience of time and place. Tomás is a master with the grill and gives the likes of Asador Etxebarri a run for its money. You can enjoy both fish and meat from San Sebastián here, the former from famous butcher Patxi Larrañaga in Lasarte, who supplies the top restaurants in Gipuzkoa. Esther is in charge of the rest of the menu. Start with the mouth-watering croquettes, and if you dine in spring, don’t miss the guisante lagrima (teardrop peas), white asparagus and broad beans. If you visit during the summer months then order the tomato salad, in autumn boletus, and during winter thistle and borage.
As chosen by Jose Urtasun of Remirez de Ganuza
Nublo
The place everyone is talking about in Rioja is Nublo in Haro. Miguel Caño, the chef and owner of this 16th century building, worked on the research team at Mugaritz. His team at Nublo are full of ambition to create a unique fine dining experience, and they support the young winemaking community and local producers. The place is amazing and dining there gives you a sense of the history of the space. They have a commitment to wines from villages and growers that will one day be the next iconic producers from Rioja.
As chosen by Telmo Rodriguez of Remelluri
Located in an imposing 16th century palace house in Haro, Nublo is a fascinating restaurant. Miguel Caño’s gastronomy boasts a strong identity, focusing on simplicity and the use of only the finest ingredients. He loves old-fashioned slow cooking techniques and showcases local Rioja wines on his menu. Nublo doesn´t have a defined menu, and the chefs work with fire in all its variations and champion local producers. The menu varies depending on what they have in that day, which is part of the restaurant’s charm. I love that there is no set menu and that each time you go you’ll have a new and different experience.
As chosen by Maria Vargas, Marqués de Murrieta
El Portal del Echaurren
My recommendation for a Rioja restaurant would have to be El Portal del Echaurren in Ezcaray. Located in the town where I was born, it has been the scene of many happy moments in my life, including during my childhood. The restaurant has been open for 125 years and was the first in Rioja to obtain both one and two Michelin stars, which helped to put Riojan gastronomy on the map. Echaurren is driven by a respect for tradition and a quest for innovation, which is demonstrated both in its dishes and its magnificent wine offering. The croquettes are still faithful to the original recipe used at the restaurant and can’t be missed. The ambiance is warm, and cosy, like a home from home. The wine list boasts great names from Rioja, Spain and around the world. The best time to visit is in the spring.
As chosen by Mayte Calvo de la Banda of Bodegas Bilbainas
Martín Cendoya
My favourite restaurant would have to be Martín Cendoya, which is located inside our winery and is open 365 days a year, serving delicious traditional Riojan dishes and signature wines with a vineyard view. I always recommend the lamb chops roasted over shoots from our vineyards. When it comes to Basque dishes, the most popular is the 1kg veal chop roasted over old vines. You’ll also find great fish such as cod and croquettes filled with local cheeses. The atmosphere is very lively and there’s the chance to take a tour of the underground cellars while you’re there.
As chosen by Pablo Martínez Urigüen of Eguren Ugarte
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Morro Tango
I’d have to choose Morro Tango in my hometown of Alfaro. Cristóbal Castillo’s cuisine is modern but with a great respect for our gastronomic traditions. He cooks classic dishes presented with refinement and his flavours have a clean and bright purity to them. From stews, peppers and artichokes to fish and meats cooked with a contemporary touch, Castillo’s proposal combines ingredients cooked through a local lens with an incredible knowledge of fine dining thanks to the decade he spent at Echaurren. The phrase ‘morro tango’ refers to those who like to eat well – it’s something our grandparents used to say to us. Don’t leave without trying the croquettes, which pay tribute to Doña Marisa Sánchez.
As chosen by Alvaro Palacios of Palacios Remondo
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Amelibia
There are many restaurants that I could recommend, but I’d have to choose Amelibia in Laguardia. The cuisine is quite traditional but the main courses have an avant-garde touch. My favourite is roast pork on a bed of sour apples, which is a perfect mix of the tenderness of the pig and its crunchy crackling with the freshness of the apples. It has a wine list that brings together the labels of the area, but if you want to enjoy special wines then ask Alejandra for her secret notebook and she’ll let you in on a few treats.
As chosen by Barbara Palacios of Bodega Barbara Palacios
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Terete
Open a Spanish restaurant guide from the 1980s and Terete is there among Spain’s finest. Go for the lamb, of course, but also the merluza frita, which is excellent. In fact, it’s all good. Terete is a family business, like every good Spanish restaurant. Jaime runs the floor and is charming, knowledgeable and the keeper of many old vintages of great Haro wines. Go during the week as it’s packed at weekends.
As chosen by Victor Urrutia of CVNE
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La Vieja Bodega
It’s difficult for me to choose just one restaurant in Rioja, but if I had to, I’d pick La Vieja Bodega in Casalarreina. I like it for its architecture – it’s a charming and cosy 17th century building made from wood and stone with high ceilings, which very much has its own identity. The cuisine is traditional with innovative touches inspired by the area. I especially like the cod with Bodegas Roda Sela, or the oxtail with Roda I. Wine plays a starring role at the restaurant, and the list is extensive and reasonable. It’s an excellent place to enjoy local cuisine.
As chosen by Esperanza Tomás of Roda
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Venta de Moncalvillo
There is an oasis between Logroño and Haro in Daroca de Rioja where you will find Venta de Moncalvillo, which is worth a detour as the Echapresto brothers take vegetable interpretation to new heights, not only in Rioja but in Spain.
As chosen by Rodolfo Bastida of Ramón Bilbao
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Calle San Juan
For the past 15 years, my favorite dining spot in Rioja is Calle San Juan. In the heart of Logroño, close to the famous Calle Laurel, Riojans enjoy fabulous tapas. With young children, it’s impossible to find time to enjoy a tasting menu in the splendid restaurants we have in Rioja. What I love about tapas is interacting with people; you always bump into acquaintances, which is the perfect excuse to share a glass of wine. My favourite tapas are the ham croquettes at Umm, the tortilla skewer at Travesía, and the Kobe medallion from Gastrobar Torres, which serves a wide range of local wines by the glass.
As chosen by Rosana Lisa of Lalomba
Asador Tres Tinas
My favourite Rioja restaurant is Asador Tres Tinas in the town of Viana. I like it because it only has a few tables and the atmosphere is very personal. Whenever I go I let them choose what I eat and tend to begin with seasonal starters such as piquillo peppers and a cogollos de tudela salad combining anchovies with cod, scrambled eggs and mushrooms. The main courses are prepared on the grill right in front of you, so you get a front row seat to the action. They serve tasty fish like grilled sea bream, sea bass and hake. The grilled meats, such as beef sirloin steaks and lamb chops, are also delicious. Don’t leave without ordering a dessert – the praline Mozart cake with mandarin sorbet is particularly good.
As chosen by Simón Arina of Baigorri
