In much of the winemaking world, small appellations often become famous for high-quality wines, while broader, region-wide designations are reserved for more ordinary bottlings – just look at Bordeaux. By contrast, Sicily boasts many wine denominations but its relatively short history in quality winemaking means that few of them are well-known outside the island. While Etna may be well on its way to becoming a classic wine region of the world, the chances are that most people have never even heard of Sicilian DOCs such as Riesi, Delia Nivolelli or Contessa Entellina.
Many winemakers in Sicily are sidestepping these obscure, geographically circumscribed denominations as result, instead opting for the more widely recognisable Sicilia DOC. ‘Although it’s quite generic,’ explains Clementina Padova of the family-run winery Riofavara, ‘the Sicilia DOC is, oddly enough, the only denomination that allows small producers like us to achieve good visibility beyond our region.’
This approach offers several advantages. Firstly, ‘Sicilia’ is a widely recognised geographic entity, even among non-wine enthusiasts, so it’s easier for consumers to identify where the wines are from. As a wine denomination, it also gives producers considerable freedom, allowing them to work with a range of familiar international grapes such as Syrah and Chardonnay, while placing emphasis on native varieties too. Compare this with the Etna DOC, for example, where the wines must always be a majority of a single stipulated grape variety.
Many Sicilian winemakers are sidestepping these obscure, geographically circumscribed denominations as result, instead opting for the more widely recognisable Sicilia DOC
Sicily’s most widely planted red-skinned grape, Nero d’Avola, is also the most popular red variety used to make Sicilia DOC wines. Historically, its prime growing area was in the southeast (which exported large quantities of wine to Bordeaux during the phylloxera crisis), but today it’s cultivated across the region. A major factor behind Nero d’Avola’s popularity is its remarkable versatility, which allows it to quickly pick up local dialects. As Gabriella Favara, the sixth-generation member of the family behind the renowned Sicilian winery Donnafugata puts it: ‘Wines made from Nero d’Avola grapes are defined by their growing environment and are full of personality… For instance, we cultivate Nero d’Avola both in the heart of southwestern Sicily and in southeastern Sicily, and the wines we produce from these two areas are so different.’
Nero D’Avola reds range from fresh and fruity to full-bodied and long-lived, with excellent structure and typically soft, approachable tannins. Beyond reds, though, the grape may also serve as a base for sparkling wines and is also an excellent choice for rosé.
When it comes to white grapes, the region’s most planted is Catarratto. Historically used in fortified wine production, it has long been considered a workhorse variety but those seeking high-quality table wines should not dismiss it so quickly. In fact, the name Catarratto refers to a group of varieties, the most widely planted being Catarratto Comune. Many, however, regard the slightly less popular Catarratto Lucido (Shiny Catarratto, for its lack of waxy bloom) as the superior variant, capable of making wines that display a more restrained aromatic profile and delicate character, combined with excellent salinity.
Grillo, another white grape, was also primarily used for Marsala production and similarly overlooked for quality wines. In recent years, however, its significant potential and versatility – similar to Nero D’Avola’s – have spurred its cultivation across the entire island. Today, Grillo wines can range from powerful and structured to exuberantly fresh and dynamic, with pronounced aromatics and a distinct mineral backbone standing as common qualities between different interpretations. Its naturally high acidity also makes Grillo an excellent candidate for sparkling wines. ‘Grillo is a grape that represents all of Sicily,’ explains Angela Sergio, winemaker at Barone Sergio. ‘We chose to grow it in the Val di Noto area [south east] to show that when cultivated in different parts of Sicily, it produces wines with unique characteristics shaped by the dynamics of each terroir.’
More intriguing Sicilia DOC wines are made from the red Perricone and the white Inzolia grapes. The latter, also commonly known as Ansonica, produces white wines that are round, light, and refreshing, with an appealing aromatic complexity of tropical and ripe stone fruits. The Sicilia DOC also allows producers to create their own distinctive interpretations of grapes commonly associated with Sicily’s few well-known denominations. Frappato, for example, is a key component of Sicily’s only DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, but can produce aromatic wines in other areas with a profile comparable to a gentle Grenache.
Similarly, the red Nerello Mascalese and the white Carricante both shine on Mount Etna but can also contribute to complex, well-structured wines when grown elsewhere on the island. Meanwhile, Zibibbo, the local name for Muscat of Alexandria, is the star of the renowned Passito di Pantelleria but is increasingly being used for delightfully aromatic dry whites across Sicily.
Adding to this already rich portfolio, more local indigenous grape varieties are being rediscovered and integrated into the Sicilia DOC, thanks to various projects dedicated to protecting and celebrating Sicily’s vine heritage. It’s an increasing diversity that offers wine enthusiasts an opportunity to discover exceptional bottles, often at surprisingly affordable prices.
Nine Sicilia DOC wines to try
Cantine Colosi, Nero D’Avola
A pure expression of the grape, aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks without oak influence. It offers a vibrant nose with aromas of sour cherry, red prunes, and blackberries, complemented by spicy nuances of black pepper and black olives. On the palate, it is savoury and deliciously floral, with an almost bitter finish.
£20, vinissimus.co.uk
Asda, Extra Special Sicilian Reserve Red, 2020
This Nero D’Avola won praise from judges at the IWSC 2024 for its ‘spicy red fruit aromas, sprinkled with notes of cinnamon and coffee’ and ‘attractive raspberry and cherry fruit on the palate with great varietal character and the ability to develop in bottle’. The result was a 90-point score and a silver medal. At less that £10 and available in one of the UK’s major supermarkets, this is a relatively easy way to sample a wine bottled under the Sicilia label.
£8.50, Asda
Fina, Bausa Nero D’Avola
From grapes grown in the western part of Sicily, this is a bolder interpretation of Nero D’Avola that matures for 18 months in large tonneaux. It shows an intriguing spicy, briny nose, with prominent plum and maraschino cherry notes, along with a delicate floral touch of violet. On the palate, it is juicy and complex, with spicy hints of clove, nutmeg, and a touch of tobacco in the finish, complemented by some Mediterranean herbs, too. Its grippy tannic structure calls for food, ideally game meat, to pair with it.
Villa Viticcè, Grillo
This is Grillo in full aromatic swing. The nose shows aromas of white flowers alongside citrus and exuberant tropical notes of lychee, peach, and melon. On the palate, it is balanced and harmonious, with a waxy texture, delicate acidity, and a fresh, savory finish.
The Wine Society, The Society’s Sicilian Reserve Red, 2021
The 2020 vintage of this Nero D’Avola scored an impressive 90 points for a silver medal at the IWSC 2024 and you can expect more of the ‘savoury complexity of blood orange and liquorice’ that impressed judges from the latest vintage. At £9 a bottle, it’s another great value way of understanding the styles of wine emerging from the Sicilia DOC.
£9, The Wine Society
Barone Sergio, Alegrè Grillo
This is a laid-back, light and fresh interpretation of Grillo, perfect for relaxed, sunny afternoons or as an aperitif before a (big) Sicilian feast. It is citrussy, zippy, clean, and mineral, with a bright palate and a hint of bitterness in the finish.
Casa di Grazia, Zahara Grillo
If, by now, there was any lingering doubt about the versatility of the Grillo grape, this wine will provide undeniable evidence. It’s a pure interpretation, spending four months in tank and twelve months in bottle, with no oak influence. A truly captivating Grillo, the nose filled with geranium and orange blossom notes, alongside Mediterranean herbs. The palate is rich, vibrant, and juicy, all surprisingly packed into a relatively low-alcohol wine. A no-brainer.
Planeta, Nocera
This wine is made from one of Sicily’s rarest native grapes, Nocera, which Planeta – widely regarded as one of the pioneers of the island’s quality wine revolution – has been playing a key role in revitalising.
The vinification process involves stainless steel only, to allow the grape’s unique character to shine. The wine is vibrant, with an aromatic palette that includes Mediterranean flavours like myrtle, garrigue, and mint. The palate is juicy, dynamic, and full of substance, with floral notes alongside deep, earthy flavors of cocoa nibs and liquorice, culminating in a meaty, savory finish. A nuanced portrayal of this lesser-known piece of Sicilian viticultural heritage.
£21.60, vinvm.co.uk
Gergenti, Grillo Sicilia, 2023
This organic Grillo took a bronze medal at the IWSC 2024, winning praise from judges for ‘generous fruit with notes of peach, nectarine and tangerine all within a delicate, rounded texture.’
