Chinese wine finds itself at an inflection point. Gone are the heady days of the early noughties when frenzied buying of Bordeaux first growths for business gifting was the norm in China. The impetus that spawned a series of joint ventures dedicated to Cabernet-based Chinese icon wines made in the image of Bordeaux, with similarly eye-watering price tags, has waned.
This, of course, doesn’t tell the whole story. But production and consumption of Chinese and imported wines have fallen dramatically over the past decade, with domestic consumption down by almost a quarter in 2023 alone. Despite the declines, China is still the world’s 15th largest producer of wine, and a focus on export markets as a source of new buyers and consumers is necessary if the industry is to be sustainable and successful in the long term. Hence the Chinese wine industry today finds itself facing a reality check and a reset.
Against this backdrop, Chinese wine has two significant issues to contend with. Firstly, a large share of its vineyard is planted to the seemingly ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon – hardly a point of difference in a crowded market. Secondly, production costs are unusually high, given vines in many locations need burying during the winter months to protect them against the cold.
So the question is: how do you attract the rest of the world to Chinese wine if a large part of what you produce is Cabernet-based and relatively expensive? Professor Li Demei is Director of the Food Science and Technology College at Beijing University of Agriculture, as well as a consultant and one of the most respected wine authorities in China. As he says, ‘Why buy a Chinese Bordeaux? You might as well just buy Bordeaux.’ He continues: ‘We need something new, something different to attract people, to make them pay attention to Chinese wine.’
It is in this context that Marselan has been heralded as a potential flagship variety for the Chinese wine industry. Indeed, in 2023, the world’s first wine competition dedicated to the grape, The Marselan Selection, was held in Ningxia, with the subsequent 2024 edition attracting more than 330 entries from 12 countries.
We need something new, something different to attract people, to make them pay attention to Chinese wine
Marselan is a Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha cross, developed in France in 1961, originally for use in the Languedoc. As a variety, it’s mid to late-ripening with large bunches but small berries, and shows good resistance to both heat and disease. Typically, Marselan produces aromatic, deeply coloured wines with good structure, supple tannins, and an ability to age.
It was first introduced into China in 2001 when the Sino-French Cooperation Demonstration Farm (now Domaine Franco-Chinois) imported cuttings from France to Hualai in Hebei Province.
Professor Li, then chief winemaker at the Sino-French Cooperation, made China’s very first Marselan from the hot, dry 2003 vintage. It immediately attracted interest from the trade and many newly established wineries, so much so that plantings went from an initial 2.75 hectares (ha) to 4,000ha today (approximately 3.8% of China’s total vineyard). This makes China second only to France in terms of area under vine for Marselan.
As Professor Li comments, ‘I’ve monitored Marselan’s growing habits and wine quality in many Chinese wine regions for over 23 years, and it always gives relatively high yields but good quality. Its moderate vigour and strong resistance to major diseases reduces the cost of vineyard management, which in turn gives us the possibility to reduce the price of Chinese wine.’
More specifically, Professor Li goes on the say that Marselan is very adaptable to different soils and climates, and is now found in most Chinese wine regions, producing different styles according to where its grown. Wines from inland areas such as Ningxia and Xinjiang tend to be more deeply coloured, powerful and spicy/jammy, whereas those from more coastal areas such as Shandong and Hebei are more floral, herbal, and occasionally minty.
When compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Marselan generally has a more brilliant purple colour and can show fresh, white fruit aromas. Crucially though, it tends to have sweeter fruit flavours and softer tannins, both of which appeal to Chinese tastes.
The best Marselan showed delightfully pretty, bright white fruit and spice notes
Whilst in Xinjiang chairing this year’s IWSC panel for the in-situ judging, I certainly tasted Marselan wines made in a wide variety of styles. Whether varietal wines or blends, the least impressive were over-oaked and too raisined, without enough freshness to balance their high alcohol and power. The best, however, showed delightfully pretty, bright white fruit and spice notes, subtle use of oak and well-integrated (though often high) alcohol.
Our top varietal Marselan was from Ningxia’s Helan Mountain. Ningxia was the area that most impressed us overall, with some beautiful wines that prioritised elegance and individuality over power.
My fellow judges had differing views on Marselan. Buying manager for Majestic Wine Elizabeth Kelly MW felt, ‘some of the Marselan wines I preferred were the cheaper, unoaked wines.’ Novel Wines’ buying director Will Hill stated, ‘Marselan has a ton of potential, and when the acidity, alcohol, tannin and oak work are in check, they [Chinese winemakers] can make it sing.’ Freelance consultant Anthony Moss MW perhaps best summed up our thoughts as judges when he commented, ‘the Marselans were more miss than hit, but the best were my favourite wines of the competition.’ He added, ‘I’ve had Marselans and Marselan blends from elsewhere but none as distinctive and joyful as the best that I tasted from Ningxia and Xinjiang.’
What is clear is that Marselan offers the Chinese wine industry a way to differentiate itself within a crowded global market – and the quality and potential of the wines is already evident in the glass. Most importantly perhaps, as Professor Li sagely points out, ‘No country has declared Marselan as its signature grape yet.’
Five award-winning Chinese Marselan wines to try
Ningxia Helan Mountain Renyiyuan Winery Co. Ltd., Renyiyuan.He 2022
Attractive spiced red and black fruit on the nose, with floral overtones and hints of lychee. Juicy and fragrant with notes of roasted herbs and jasmine tea leaf. There is a lot of alcohol here but it’s in combination with a layered and finely textured palate and impressive length. Dense, fleshy and generous. Beautiful label too! 95 points. Read more.
Xiaoyao Tech (Nanjing) Xiao Yao One 2022
Lots of bright black cherry fruit, perfumed lavender and lychee on the nose. A pretty, floral style, very lifted and drinkable with fine tannins and subtle use of oak. 93 points. Read more.
Zhongliang Great Wall Wine, Greatwall Longji Vineyard Marselan Dry Red Wine 2022
Perfumed nose of blackberry, plum and fig, along with hints of cedarwood, gunsmoke and tobacco. Wonderfully rich, ripe and juicy with fine tannins, refreshing acidity and good structure. 92 points. Read more.
Huaigu Winery, Huaigu Five-star Raisin Wine 2019
Savoury and nutty on the nose, dry and full-bodied with notes of coffee bean and black plum. Harmonious and well balanced with some maturity and a relatively long finish. 91 points. Read more.
Xinjiang Yast Wine Industry, Yili Valley Wuzhui Dry Red Wine (Limited Edition)
Heady nose of ripe red cherries leads to a generous palate of cherry and subtle spice. Fruit forward but well integrated and easy drinking. 91 points. Read more.
