A big part of my family history is Armagnac. As a child, I was surrounded by barrels and bottles. It’s part of my culture to finish a celebration with a glass of the spirit. But it’s also an ingredient that’s a part of my cuisine: particularly with the signature dessert at my restaurants, a baba soaked in aged Darroze Armagnac instead of rum. In Issue 18 of Club Oenologique, Armagnac runs throughout.
I’m the fourth generation of my family to cook, and so, as a chef, I’m really attached to my roots. The southwest of France – Les Landes and the Basque Country – has influenced me a lot; I have its DNA in my blood. The basis of my food philosophy and my cuisine stands in this terroir and in these roots.
In this issue, I hope readers will get to know this corner of France and its produce a little better – from the biodynamic vines of Bordeaux to the epicurean delights of the Dordogne. The latter is my country: a region of good food, good wine and sharing around the table – and with an amazing product when in season: the black truffle.
In my family, we are all about seasonal produce. I have such a strong relationship with my suppliers, one of whom, fisherman Mathieu Chapel, is profiled in this issue. He has helped me discover types of fish I never knew before and helped me understand that there are also seasons for fish.
When I was growing up, the star on the plate was the white salmon from the River Adour, the region’s milk-fed lamb, the lobster, the game… vegetables were secondary. When I started to work with Alain Ducasse, more than 30 years ago, there was a dish on the menu made only with vegetables. It was a revelation, and it’s now something that is central to my food philosophy. It’s clear I’m not alone: Carolyn Boyd explores this idea across France’s fine-dining restaurants.
For me, it’s an honour to share my food-and-drink philosophy with you
As a child, I was also lucky in the fact that one of my father’s best friends was Jean-Claude Berrouet, who was the winemaker at Pétrus. I attended so many wine tastings at his side and learned so much from him at a young age. As such, it’s really, really important for me to create a pairing between the food and the liquid, and I hope readers will get a greater understanding of the link I have with all of the amazing sommeliers across my restaurants. In this issue, you will learn about how this works in particular at my London restaurant, which boasts an exceptional wine list.
Non-alcoholic pairings are just as important to me. As I write this editor’s letter, I am drinking a beautiful gyokuro tea from Japan. I love the harmony you can get from a tea, and the seaweed, smoke and body the drink can generate; it reminds me a lot of wine. I am delighted to have Alice Lascelles further explore this artisanal drink.
For me, it’s an honour to share my food-and-drink philosophy with you. While I must confess that I don’t drink a lot, when I do drink, I make sure that it is special.
Hélène Darroze
April 2025
