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Finding the best in fine-dining across Rioja

While Rioja may be best known for its exceptional red wines, it's also home to a thriving fine-dining scene. Fintan Kerr picks out nine top restaurants to visit on your next tour of the region

Words by Fintan Kerr

Some of the best restaurants in Rioja combine traditional, local produce and modern sophistication

When visiting wine country, two things are of the utmost importance: good wine and good food. A bottle is always at its best on the dinner table and a good meal becomes a great meal with the right wine. In some regions, the quality of the wine far surpasses the food. In Rioja, this is certainly not the case. The region is blessed with an abundance of natural resources, including the Atlantic Ocean to the north for the freshest fish, and the cool green pastures where some of Spain´s most famous beef is raised. Having the Basque Country on the doorstep – the culinary hotspot of the country – means that there is always a plethora of cheffing talent passing through. Perhaps most important though, is the cultural element. Riojans like to eat, and they like to eat well. With such an embarrassment of riches on their doorstep, it’s easy to see why.

Traditionally, food in Rioja has been fairly rustic, focused on slow-cooked meats, stews and other hearty fare that pairs not only with the local wines but also with the continental climate. However, as the wine industry has grown, so too has the demand for a more sophisticated approach to food. Taking a leaf out of the Basque Country’s book, the region’s fine-dining scene has consequently flourished.

Even the smaller wine towns and villages have restaurants that take care and attention when creating their dishes

Today, it’s possible to eat well almost anywhere in Rioja. Even the smaller wine towns and villages have restaurants that take care and attention when creating their dishes, which are focused on fresh, seasonal produce and regularly changing menus according to the time of the year. Better yet, the scene appears to have grown at the same rate as modern wine appreciation, leading to a number of established restaurants with excellent wine lists to complement the delicious food.

While not exhaustive, this list covers some of the very best Rioja restaurants. Buen provecho!

9 of the best restaurants in Rioja

best rioja restaurants

Allegar

26330 Briones, La Rioja

Briones isn´t just a famous winemaking village, it’s considered to be one of the most beautiful medieval villages in the whole of Spain. Within it, Allegar is the finest restaurant, located in the Santa Maria Briones Hotel and with a name that literally translates to mean ‘to scrape your plate clean’. This sets the tone for an indulgent dining experience. Allegar offers a modified take on Riojan cooking with a few twists, all the while allowing the essence of these local ingredients to deliciously shine through.

santamariabriones.com

A dish served at Echaurren, one of the best rioja restaurants and the first to receive a Michelin star

El Portal de Echaurren

19 Ezcaray, Rioja

The first restaurant in Rioja to ever receive a Michelin star (it now has two), El Portal de Echaurren is the jewel in the crown of Ezcaray, along with sister site Echaurren Tradición. Chef Francis Paniego is the driving force behind both venues, and at El Portal, he reaches his creative zenith. The menu changes frequently, though the famous croquetas are worth the trip alone. For many, this is the peak of dining in Rioja. Place yourself in the capable hands of the restaurant staff and let them guide you on both the food and the incredible wine list.

echaurren.com

 

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Aitor Esnal

26001 Logroño España

Aitor Esnal is the third Logroño restaurant of Basque husband and wife team Aitor Esnal and Beatriz Martinez, the chef and sommelier behind Marinée and Wine Fandango. An excellent wine list, three tasting menus (one in homage to Esnal’s mother), additional Asian influences and a cool open plan dining room and kitchen make this one of the most exciting new restaurants (it opened in 2020) in Rioja’s vibrant foodie landscape.

aitoresnal.com

Ikaro

26001 Logroño, La Rioja

Iñaki Murua and Carolina Sánchez managed to claim their first Michelin star in only 18 months of opening Ikaro, a fusion restaurant in the heart of Logroño. Murua is from Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa and Sánchez comes from Ecuador, and while the food is focused on local ingredients, it is also coloured by the experience and heritage of these two young superstars. Their creativity is abundantly clear across a number of short menus that vary in length and come with the option for pre-selected wine pairings.

restauranteikaro.com

Ajonegro

26001 Logroño, Rioja

Ajonegro is a charming restaurant with a Spanish-Mexican fusion concept, no doubt the influence of its two chefs, Mariana Sanchez from Cuernavaca, Mexico, and Gonzálo Baquedano from Logroño, who both worked together at the famous ABaC in Barcelona. Two evening tasting menus are offered with the choice of wine pairings, as well as an à la carte choice that melds the likes of mole and tacos with fresh oysters and steak tartare.

restauranteajonegro.com

Casa Toni

San Vicente de la Sonsierra, La Rioja

Located in the village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra, with its winding, medieval streets and walled facades, is Casa Toni. The atmosphere here is warm and inviting, and the food is traditional. Roasted pigs’ feet, sausages, potatoes and chorizo are staples on the menu, though there are also many contemporary dishes to balance this out. Much of the wine list hails from nearby producers, making for a perfect introduction to the village as a whole.

casatoni.com

La Cocina de Ramón

26001 Logroño, La Rioja

Just a few streets away from the cathedral in Logroño lies La Cocina de Ramón, ably led by Ramón Piñeiro and his hard-working team. The local market is less than 100 metres away, so fresh produce takes centre stage, particularly the region’s native vegetables, which Piñeiro works into a great many of his recipes. Delicious, hearty, filling food ideal after a long day of travelling and drinking wine. The restaurant is small and popular; a combination that suggests advanced bookings are a smart idea.

lacocinaderamon.com

 

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Venta Moncalvillo

26373 Daroca de Rioja, La Rioja

If there´s a must-visit restaurant for wine lovers, it´s the two Michelin-starred Venta Moncalvillo in Daroca de Rioja, south of Logroño. Brothers Ignacio and Carlos Echapresto run the restaurant as a team; Ignacio manages the menu, with much of the ingredients sourced from the gardens of the restaurant, while Carlos manages the front of house and arguably the greatest wine cellar in Rioja. With over 600 references, including a great deal of old, rare Rioja, this is the ideal restaurant to visit for a splurge.

ventamoncalvillo.com

A dish served at Nublo, one of the best rioja restaurants

Nublo

26200 Haro, La Rioja

Should you find yourself in Haro, perhaps after spending a day visiting the many famous wineries clustered around the historic railway station, consider dining at Nublo, located in a beautifully renovated area of the old town. Despite being a new restaurant, the focus here is on traditional recipes and cooking; particularly wood-smoked meats and fish. The wine list is one of the more eclectic in the region and packed full of new growers and upcoming talents. It’s a combination that has already earned Nublo a Michelin star.

nublorestaurant.com